British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[Wildefalcon]

That's nice stuff. If this doesn't work I'll look at that.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@Wildefalcon This 'contract/project' is certainly keeping you busy - keep the updates coming as we're enjoying them.

 

[Wildefalcon]

It justifies the tools and workshop.

Plus I do like fixing stuff.

 

[Wildefalcon]

What's a good wood preservative these days?

Not creosote, I'm only using that on the floor joists.

Needs to kill and preserve. Lots of evidence of woodworm.

 

[Dieselman 63]

What's a good wood preservative these days?

Not creosote, I'm only using that on the floor joists.

Needs to kill and preserve. Lots of evidence of woodworm.

Kero kills woodworm if you can handle the stench

 

[Wildefalcon]

Stench is the issue with creosote. I'll see what the DIY shop next door has.

 

[Wildefalcon]

This is clearly madness.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Clear evidence of carpentry.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm removing the spongy wood. I presume I can't weld this back together, so will be using glue and stainless screws.

 

[Wildefalcon]

But the value in doing this is that the profile is perfect for the door frame.

 

[gaz1]

this is what id do


measure the inside part of the double doors metal frame split the width measurement into 2 and dont forget the gaps needed for expanding wood

this will give you an internal frame to build ( wood or metal 1" square tubing ) this you build onto and you can insulate it out

personally id use 1" square tube with a steel bar where the hinges are it also means you can fit a lock as well into the 1" square tubing you can also use shoot bolts on the other door on the inside

fit the new boards onto the frame

 

[Wildefalcon]

I found some killer of life stuff in the garden shed. By ICI, so might be good.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I fear it might end up that way. I'll persist with the timber for a bit.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The more I think about this, the more I come back to the steel inner frame idea.

 

[gaz1]

the timber is still used or plastic depends on which way you use

the inside frame has to fit into the space when the doors are closed but gives a few advantages its something to fasten too and also can be insulated as well whilst also fitting a lock into one side all it needs is box section tube its only the hinge section id fit a bar onto the frame for fastening to the front bar hinges

when the doors close up to the original frame that inner box must fit over your angle iron to the sides as well as top and bottom

because your using the metal box section you can buy double glazing slide bolts and hooks and fit it onto the box section

 

[Wildefalcon]

Yes, got that. But I'm keeping the timber outer frame. Just using the steel as a structure to fit it to.

I've ordered some 25mm box and rectangular section 25*50.

No need for anti jack hinges bolts or suchlike. Security will be the original bolt, and hasp. A padlock will be fine. Not a high crime area and I'll have a camera on it.

It will look like the original, but with planking instead of plywood.

Not sure what the inner side will look like yet, might be elm on thin ply, as I have both, rather than vee sheeting. I'll make the timber frame thinner, so it won't protrude into the interior so much, and leave space for the handle for the inner doors.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The third window is fully fitted. Another job ticked off the list.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Does anyone know what these are called? And where I can get them?

 

[Wildefalcon]

Ah! CORRUGATED SAW EDGE FASTENERS STEEL WIGGLE NAILS.

eBay.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The recent weather has made my optimism unfounded. The rain is running in under the plastic t&g.

I'll be applying a heavy coat of anti corrosion, so it's not an issue, really, but I'm going to instigate back up plan "A" anyway.