British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[Wildefalcon]

That is, slip a bit of T from an off cut into the G, all along the base, so it overlaps the steel, and acts as a throw for the rain runoff.

I did type that without the abbreviations, but it came across as very family unfriendly.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Minor panic, I thought the gutter was lower than the door frame opening. But I think I'm going to be okay.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Not much, but enough.

The door frame steel is ready for welding. I was going to use the 50*25 rectangular for all the ledgers, but it was quite heavy, so switched to the 25*25.


I'll emulate a pigeon tomorrow and steel glue it together.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The mask battery wasn't charged. What idiot forgot to charge the battery!

 

[Wildefalcon]

Door one done, door two ready to be glued together.

I'm a bit disappointed as to how little strength I've in my right hand, though it's only five weeks from the surgery, so, maybe. Anyway, my welding is rubbish, but I've used enough amps and it's strong.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Now, the scary bit. Wood bothering.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Now, the scary bit. Wood bothering.

I see no wood....

 

[colnerov]

I see no wood....

It's bothered off.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Wood work isn't too bad. Makes a lot of mess. So I'm working outside. I've the shape of what I need to do in my head.

 

[gaz1]

search for this video on you tube and download it if you want to do

Rosewood and Cedar Barn doors

as the door slats will be yours whilst the metal frame is the door frame the run of wood down the door is the best compared to horizontal wooding

take note of the door seals either they go on the top and sides or they go on the rear of the door you can seal in 2 points if you want one on the metal frame of the door surround the other between the made up frame and the door frame sides and top

post 525 1st pic if you move the frame more to the left you will be able to get a good support for the board laft and right with only 12mm of cedar down the metal frame whilst the middle gets a thicker piece if you was fitting a door catch or door lock this point top and bottom can use shoot bolts as well for keeping one side closed whilst the other one opens and shuts

you will see how they are done with the videos reference below

the joint in the door is ackward to do either have a look at wood french doors on you tube as well as the above named video

 

[Wildefalcon]

Yes.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Anti social behaviour.

 

[gaz1]

because you have a door core with a wood paneling on it you have a few choices on the inside after its bolted to the hinges

insulate the inside of the metal frame, the internal cover can be

plyboard
laminate flooring
plastic sheet

 

[Wildefalcon]

Filler stinks. Good stuff, though.

 

[Wildefalcon]

because you have a door core with a wood paneling on it you have a few choices on the inside after its bolted to the hinges

insulate the inside of the metal frame, the internal cover can be

plyboard
laminate flooring
plastic sheet

Yes.

 

[Wildefalcon]

It's taking shape.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm finishing for the day. This is mostly in shape. I'll tidy up the main frame and then attach it all to the steel, sand it even, then remove and apply preservatives of all sorts. Then repeat.

When it comes to installation I might fit some 25mm insulation, might not. They're only outer doors, so not as critical as the rest.

 

[Wildefalcon]

More turning wood into dust.

 

[Wildefalcon]

It's good enough. I'll trial fit after lunch, then soak in solvents. And epoxy the frame.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I need to take another half inch off the inside of the base. No problem.

Fits very nice now, so all disassembled, frame painted zinc phosphate epoxy. And timber in a bucket of preservative.