British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[Wildefalcon]

That stuff dries slow. So I'm switching focus to the door and other hardware.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The door fittings only needed a little bit of fettling to go nice.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The top bolt will be a nice bit of ex box section, I think.

I did seriously consider using the proper original top frame timber, but the clearances are all wrong, as the inner doors are taller, and my new order doors are likewise.

For a start this is missing.

And the gap between the doors and the roof is too small.

So a bit of box cut and welded will do the trick.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Or maybe a bit of chunky angle section?

I think that's closer to what the wagon builders would have done....

 

[Wildefalcon]

Some studs tapped and welded and some drilling and fileing later, it's all as I want it. Some other bits to do and then a coat of grey over lots of things.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm going to make a start on the internal roof bars today. These are an arched steel L section, with arched wooden beams bolted to them. The wood is there, I presume, to attach the roof to, and the previous owner fitted inner wooden panels to these wooden beams.

They're in good shape, generally, despite lots of worm. There's damage to the end of one, and some splitting where I think the new inner panel fixings missed the centre.

I'm going to clean the wood up, low key to retain the patina, and apply satin oil to add lustre. I'll fill the worst of the damage, but no more.

The steel will be cleaned and painted to match the exterior. Very minor stuff to do on that. Some screws sticking through to be cut off and dressed, no rust.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Not quite a "before and after" sequence.

What's working is hand sanding (euch), chisel, and Swiss army knife.

It's slow, but steady.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm using wood hardener on the soft stuff, so I can get the filler onto something decent.

 

[Wildefalcon]

It's better. Not much, but will be mostly hidden.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The rest is showing signs that it's going to be very good.

Many coats to go, and not all showing the bright wood. But I'm happy enough.

 

[sako243]

What's best practice on concealed cables? Metal channel? Oval pvc? I'm going to hide a few wires behind the plasterboard.

Galvanised conduit?

 

[Wildefalcon]

And some just about dry door furniture.

 

[Wildefalcon]

That's got a lot of touch up work to go, but I'm okay with that. It needs a second coat of grey, which is fine

 

[Wildefalcon]

Galvanised conduit?

For behind plasterboard? Nah.

 

[sako243]

For behind plasterboard? Nah.

Ah I thought you meant exposed wiring

 

[Wildefalcon]

No, there's a few things I need to hide.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Oh, and I fitted and oiled a door.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I think I'll take it easy tomorrow. Recoat that varnish on the beams, and on the doors. Fit the door catchers.

Then mow the lawn, cut the hedge and cut some scrap up for the recycling.

 

[gaz1]

ive been looking at metal channel

this is hat channel

hat channel - Google Search

the one thing with that is you can fit it in reverse or as a wire protector

if in reverse you can use it to grip your 1" insulation board and then fit a strip over it before the next 1" insulation board goes over it

also with that type of channel you can widden the plate so it can then fasten to a normal or metal plug box or light switch box you can also screw your top coat insulation board on top

 

[Wildefalcon]

Cool stuff.

And, on that topic, automatic door retainers!