Helical Milling Jig

[Screwdriver]

For hinges, I have had a lot of luck printing 1.2mm holes and inserting 1mm wire.

It's a tight squeeze so I use a collet to drive it in. Will never come out.

Print in place is great once you get your settings dialled in but tricky to get right in one shot. You might need a few more hinge points too, I gave my tiny box four points in less than 100mm.

 

[Onoff]

For hinges, I have had a lot of luck printing 1.2mm holes and inserting 1mm wire.

It's a tight squeeze so I use a collet to drive it in. Will never come out.

Print in place is great once you get your settings dialled in but tricky to get right in one shot. You might need a few more hinge points too, I gave my tiny box four points in less than 100mm.

Thanks though I'm overly cautious of little bits of wire one day falling out etc and being picked up by kids playing with the box or some such. Could seal the end holes I guess...

Did think of those little spring, telescopic hinges you get say in watch straps. No idea what they're called mind.

 

[James1979]

Thanks though I'm overly cautious of little bits of wire one day falling out etc and being picked up by kids playing with the box or some such. Could seal the end holes I guess...

Did think of those little spring, telescopic hinges you get say in watch straps. No idea what they're called mind.

Pins I think

 

[Screwdriver]

I use one great big long piece of wire. It is not coming out under any circumstance.

 

[Onoff]

Pins I think

Indeed, cheers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Repair-Pieces-Adjustment-Various/dp/B09JF5XXVT/ref=asc_df_B09JF5XXVT/?

 

[Onoff]

I use one great big long piece of wire. It is not coming out under any circumstance.

When you print does the hinge hole not "fill up"? Do you have to heat the wire to get it through?

 

[Screwdriver]

When you print does the hinge hole not "fill up"? Do you have to heat the wire to get it through?

1.2mm print, 0.9mm wire works for me. It is tough to drive it in but doable. I sharpen one end (wait for it) and twist the wire using a collet. It drills it way through the hole which does close up a bit. Then obviously, trim off the sharp end and trim to length. You could seal the end by giving it a quick dab with a cool soldering iron but seeing how firmly the wire is held, I didn't bother.

It needs to be perfectly straight (I twist it under tension) and ideally a high carbon or stainless wire so that it is rigid enough. You will have to use a collet and yes I tried heat but that can wander off course and when it cools, you are stuck (so is your hinge!).

 

[ukracer]

Have you got a better photo of the damaged slot entrance?

 

[Onoff]

View attachment 383650View attachment 383651View attachment 383652

Oh...whoops! I'll have to try and fill that with weld and Dremel the groove I reckon.

 

[ukracer]

Oh...whoops! I'll have to try and fill that with weld and Dremel the groove I reckon.

Not sure if it will impede the operation not knowing what it's for. Lol

I think a dab of jb weld would sort it if needed.

I enjoyed up to today but got frustrated today. I was back to my normal.not having the correct tool. Lol

Never cut a circlip grooves until today and I now know why you actually need mini boring tools and grooving tools.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/i84hihcckr73zll/20230204_215620.mp4?dl=0

 

[James1979]

Been following this and I was wondering, why not lift the tool out when the jig was rewound. So you’re not climb milling it.

Genuine question, I was pondering comments above about it causing you grief when you went backwards and wondered if that would help?

Bit late now I suppose

Fair play for taking it on though.

What’s the circlip holding in? Out of interest.

 

[Onoff]

As per the pm, thank so much for having a crack at this. As I say I can arrange a courier if you don't mind taking to a drop off point.

Just thinking why it cut better one side than the other a "grain direction issue?

To make good it'll have to be a blob of weld here, on the BILs lathe if it's going then the Dremel.

 

[Onoff]

What’s the circlip holding in? Out of interest

A split bearing. Yes it's meant to be a bit loose.

 

[ukracer]

Been following this and I was wondering, why not lift the tool out when the jig was rewound. So you’re not climb milling it.

Genuine question, I was pondering comments above about it causing you grief when you went backwards and wondered if that would help?

Bit late now I suppose

Fair play for taking it on though.

What’s the circlip holding in? Out of interest.

I was all experimental.
Going backwards cleaned it up to be honest.
I did lift it when reversing ...that's why I did the silly cock up. Changed routine.

As for climb milling I have a hang up about multiple choice questions if it's a choice of 2 things. So I would not remember which way climb milling was...however it must be doing climb milling both ways being in a slot surely.

The biggest issue I had was when I did the second slot it had chatter...but the blocks were the same with the bolt in the rear controlling the rotation resistance.

I have a idea for some youtube videos. And if I was set up I could have videoed it and people could have suggested ways round it. But my workshop is in too much of a mess to put time into videoing poor machining. Lol

 

[ukracer]

As per the pm, thank so much for having a crack at this. As I say I can arrange a courier if you don't mind taking to a drop off point.

Just thinking why it cut better one side than the other a "grain direction issue?

To make good it'll have to be a blob of weld here, on the BILs lathe if it's going then the Dremel.

I guess that might be the quickest.
take your pick.of couriers then.
you have my address and details etc.

I can take it in tomorrow.

 

[Onoff]

I guess that might be the quickest.
take your pick.of couriers then.
you have my address and details etc.

I can take it in tomorrow.

Right, I'll sort the labels now. Thanks

 

[Onoff]

Labels sent.

To make good the slip up I have:

Stainless mig wire
316 rods
309 rods

The bit that's been made is A303. Thinking the stainless mig wire will be the best bet?

 

[ukracer]

Labels sent.

To make good the slip up I have:

Stainless mig wire
316 rods
309 rods

The bit that's been made is A303. Thinking the stainless mig wire will be the best bet?

Lol no good asking me about welding. I am sure an expert will be along shortly.

 

[Onoff]

Lol no good asking me about welding. I am sure an expert will be along shortly.

Anyone know what grade the stainless mig wire from MachineMart is?

 

[Kram]

309 is the better, use for everything option, I believe, but for the ornamental use I dont think the grade will be noticable.

Be careful that stainless will warp like a bananna if your not careful, I did not findtig with it easy. Practise on scrap first.


I typed and lost my reply.. was going to say it might help to use solid steel bar and mounting blocks for the milling operation, and have the printed parts just as sleeves/bushings to be glued in. I imagine it would help with rigidity, and reduce print times, possibly reusable for all kond of stuff.. However it looks like it worked! Nice job.