I'll have a lookThe contactor and overload are separate usually. Disconnect the overload and the motor can be switched.
If your in there anyway I’d change the cap as well even if it’s not causing your problem they are cheap enough and makes sense to do it while your on. You want the uf value and spec the voltage above what your motor runs. Most are rated to 450v.
Looking at it, that may have been specced for a 3-phase motor,
Hard to find anything else rated for inductive loads, so most will use them for single-phase too!It is a 3-phase contactor, so precisely that reason.
You could see if you can isolate the neutral from the overload and put the feed through all three in parallel. That would effectively make it a 8a overload instead of 2.7a
The destructions say it can be 1 phase or 3 phase the wire layout needs changing for each. It was also wired wrong according to the instructions but it still didn't change anything when I swapped them.aboutI dunno if it'll work or what hindrances there might be to it, It's just a suggestion. It looks like at the moment they have T2/L2 and T3/L3 wires in series. Dunno why that might be.
Its when a motor is started in delta then switched to star after up to speed I belive.what is the star delta starter? as it states only a max of 4.2 amps on that
Don't quote me on this, I think it's the other way around, to limit start-up current and torque on BIG motors - wound for delta on 415v, the star connection would need about 650 - 700 volts for full current, so the start current on 415 is reduced quite a bit, then once up to or close to speed it's switched to the delta connection and gets full (but not "locked-rotor" starting) current?Its when a motor is started in delta then switched to star after up to speed I belive.
Don't quote me on this, I think it's the other way around