I've Gone and Done Something Mental

[badabec]

220 and 60 for me. For very flat items, like the gear gauges, I use a UHU glue stick on the bed.

 

[Spuddevans]

I print in PETG mostly, my std settings are 250 and 80 (for the 1st layer, dropping to 245 and 75 for the rest)

Two of the best upgrades I have done is ;
(1) my bed has 4 adjustment points with springs, so I replaced one with a solid spacer which has made the bed much more stable and the other 3 points are fine for levelling.

(2) I bought a magnetic PEI coated spring-steel print bed and installed it. It has a textured finish on it that not only aids the PEI in gripping the part being printed, it also leaves a nice funky finish ot the bottom of the parts. It holds the parts really secure, even parts that are really tall with little contact on the bed, but then it releases them really easily when the bed cools to room temp. (even with PETG which is known for ripping holes in glass beds) Because it is spring-steel it is easy to remove from the magnetic backing (which is stuck to the printer bed) and slightly "flex" it to release the completed part. No need for applying any other products to the bed.

Since doing those upgrades (and obviously re-levelling the bed) I have not had to reset the bed level and I cant remember the last time a print failed due to becoming detached from the build plate.

The other 2 good physical upgrades I did for my printer (ANET A8) was to change the linear bearings to composite bearings (much quieter) and to upgrade to a Titen Aero extruder.

 

[ChrisBailey]

Im tempted to upgrade to a titan aero extruder since Im going to print an RC plane from 3dlabprint and they recomend a direct drive extruder.
Not cheap though.

Ive just plugged my printer in and apart from leveling had no issues. I am going through calibration now before i attempt the plane, I did the esteps yesterday and mine was slighly under extruding.

 

[ajlelectronics]

ESUN ABS print currently running. Setting it up, I couldn't get the bed temperature up to 110C, after half an hour the best it would reach was 107C. so I modded the slice for 240/100 and so far, no warpage and it looks reasonable quality.

 

[indy4x]

Hello, I'm getting the hang of Design Spark Mechanical, slowly.
One thing I can't work out is how to turn off say 'circle'. I draw the circle, type in the dimension, press enter. Fine. Then I move the mouse and I am drawing a massive circle and I have to click 'undo'. How do I make it stop?

Not used Design Spark, but other drawing packages you press the Esc key after you have drawn something and don't want to draw another, might be worth a try

 

[JMS1972]

ESUN ABS print currently running. Setting it up, I couldn't get the bed temperature up to 110C, after half an hour the best it would reach was 107C. so I modded the slice for 240/100 and so far, no warpage and it looks reasonable quality.

View attachment 313422

Have you got any insulation under the bed? The black packing foam is fire proof apparently. If you need the higher temperature. Either that or a heated enclosure....

 

[ajlelectronics]

Right hand cable clip is too fragile, so I need to remodel that. The height needs increasing too, so that there is more meat around the upper fixing.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Have you got any insulation under the bed? The black packing foam is fire proof apparently. If you need the higher temperature. Either that or a heated enclosure....

No. It is the glass bed in use. I didn't have any trouble when the weather was better, but it looks like 100C is adequate anyway.

An enclosure is high up on my round tuit. Maybe I could find a design for a round tuit and then it would be easy?

 

[Onoff]

Right hand cable clip is too fragile, so I need to remodel that.

View attachment 313443

Morse key?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Morse key?

Overdrive inhibit prototypes. I dropped the three point fixing when the lower one broke off. It doesn't offer any advantage anyway.

 

[JMS1972]

No. It is the glass bed in use. I didn't have any trouble when the weather was better, but it looks like 100C is adequate anyway.

An enclosure is high up on my round tuit. Maybe I could find a design for a round tuit and then it would be easy?

I meant on the underside of the heat pad, where the springs live, like this...

Can save you a bit if money on long prints and speed up heating time slightly. You also get more even heating on bigger machines...

 

[Onoff]

No. It is the glass bed in use. I didn't have any trouble when the weather was better, but it looks like 100C is adequate anyway.

An enclosure is high up on my round tuit. Maybe I could find a design for a round tuit and then it would be easy?

For an enclosure basis I think IKEA LACK tables are back in stock but their home delivery prices were ridiculous at one time.

Really pleased with ours made from scrap site hoarding:

Just wish my lad would "get into" ABS. He's worried about the printers internal electronics overheating. Mind he's shown no real interest in moving them outboard.

Not like he hasn't the time since finishing uni. He's bloody regressed to gaming all night. Needs to think about some job rather than troll hunting!

 

[ajlelectronics]

I have lots of aluminium C section that I intend to use, but need to print off the corners first. I wanted to do them in ABS but of course we have a chicken and egg situation.

 

[Onoff]

I have lots of aluminium C section that I intend to use, but need to print off the corners first. I wanted to do them in ABS but of course we have a chicken and egg situation.

Some use a cheapo photo light box tent thingy. Might get you started.

Tbh just a bfo upturned clear plastic storage crate(s) would do if you do it inside. We tried outside like below but because the prints took so long, as the daytime temperature dropped we got warping. Back then too we weren't using proper adhesion promoter.

 

[ajlelectronics]

The coating on the glass bed has failed now!

 

[Onoff]

The coating on the glass bed has failed now!

View attachment 313454

Is that an Anycubic Ultrabase?

Overlaid my lads here with a custom cut to shape, borosilicate glass. Not cheap, just shy of £50 but really good. I can give you the details where I got it from.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Is that an Anycubic Ultrabase?

Overlaid my lads here with a custom cut to shape, borosilicate glass. Not cheap, just shy of £50 but really good. I can give you the details where I got it from.

Ender 3 V2. I have just fired off an email complaint, but no doubt that will turn into another farce like the fan complaint! I will just order another from Amazon and if Creality want to play dumb, Section 75 CCA will be the answer.

 

[JMS1972]

The coating on the glass bed has failed now!

View attachment 313454

For sticky filaments I use a layer of Kapton tape to protect the glass bed. Not really needed for PLA if you let it cool.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I have ordered what claims to be a Borosilicate bed for £20 and whilst I was on there, I thought (go away in short jerky movements) it, let's try one of the Creality branded enclosures. It's only an expensive tent but will I get around to building my own?

Borosilicate bed.

Creality enclosure.

 

[ajlelectronics]

For sticky filaments I use a layer of Kapton tape to protect the glass bed. Not really needed for PLA if you let it cool.

I have some Kapton tape, but I just used 3DLAC. It stuck perfectly and released once cold with no effort. Unfortunately it took part of the coating with it.