ajlelectronics
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5, 4, 3, 2, 1...
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Anguz
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Yes... have tried the dog... looks like a dog to me
But i think the other test piece looks interesting
Is your filament dry, that print looks similar to how mine went with some old ABS filament i had
ajlelectronics
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I believe so, it has been stored carefully and only recently opened. It has also spent many hours at 50C in the enclosure, so good suggestion, but I don't think it's that. My calibration "cube" seems much nicer quality than the last ones so I have just loaded the ABS for another try. Maybe it was down to the nozzle? I have re-levelled too.
ajlelectronics
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Did you check your PMs?
ajlelectronics
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Different issues now, possibly over temperature?
ChrisBailey
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Ive had that wierd texture on the bottom layer of pla prints, i just let it print and the top layers hide it.
ajlelectronics
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The left hand spacer hasn't laid its first layer even. I have given up for now and will try again a bit later.
Spuddevans
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I've had a similar looking effect when printing PETG, after much trial (and hair pulling) it was cured with increasing the bed temp by 10+ degrees. I seem to recall that you are at the max you can get from your bed temp, have you checked what the bed temp actually is and not just what the printer thinks it is? (my printer was off by about 10 degrees (it thought it was 60, but the thermometer said 50) )
Can you preheat the bed and keep it at the max needed temp for a few mins before you start the print? This may allow the top of the bed to get properly up to temp as usually the thermocouple is on the underneath of the bed, and if you have a glass bed, the tempreture can take a little longer to migrate thru the glass.
Tim
Can you preheat the bed and keep it at the max needed temp for a few mins before you start the print? This may allow the top of the bed to get properly up to temp as usually the thermocouple is on the underneath of the bed, and if you have a glass bed, the tempreture can take a little longer to migrate thru the glass.
Tim
Anguz
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First failure....
The boobies started printing well... then came unstuck....
Aborted the print.. the top is flat but it hadn't adhered properly to the glass, and was rocking slightly
My infrared thermometer says the bed is only 57 when the software thinks its 60.. is there a fiddle factor to alter or do I just allow for this in the slicer?
Or is it something else?
Have printed 2 dogs both ok but the bases on those are thicker
The boobies started printing well... then came unstuck....
Aborted the print.. the top is flat but it hadn't adhered properly to the glass, and was rocking slightly
My infrared thermometer says the bed is only 57 when the software thinks its 60.. is there a fiddle factor to alter or do I just allow for this in the slicer?
Or is it something else?
Have printed 2 dogs both ok but the bases on those are thicker
Spuddevans
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I just adjusted it in the slicer, there may be an adjustment in firmware that can be done, but I chose the easy option to just add on the needed difference in the slicer.
It looks like you could do with adjusting the "initial layer flow rate" up a bit, seems like the initial layer is a little under-extruded. I use about 15% extra flow rate on the 1st layer which helps to make sure that the 1st layer has a better adhesion together and to the bed.
I also set a higher 1st-layer bed tempreture (83 degrees for PETG) which helps in a couple of ways, (1), it takes a couple of mins longer to get up to tempreture which allows the tempreture to stabilize and to soak thru to the top of the build plate, and (2), the higher tempreture also helps with adhesion to the bed. (thereafter the bed temp' is set to 75)
It looks like you could do with adjusting the "initial layer flow rate" up a bit, seems like the initial layer is a little under-extruded. I use about 15% extra flow rate on the 1st layer which helps to make sure that the 1st layer has a better adhesion together and to the bed.
I also set a higher 1st-layer bed tempreture (83 degrees for PETG) which helps in a couple of ways, (1), it takes a couple of mins longer to get up to tempreture which allows the tempreture to stabilize and to soak thru to the top of the build plate, and (2), the higher tempreture also helps with adhesion to the bed. (thereafter the bed temp' is set to 75)
ajlelectronics
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Try 65C for the bed and 210 for nozzle.
Anguz
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Tried the 65 and 205... also added a raft... stuck much better... finish not quite as good
Have dropped to 203 for nozzle
Also have a line .. may be a bit of a tight spot.... but have just set another going in case it wasnt
Soon be running out of the supplied filament so will be waiting ... hopefully not too long
Have dropped to 203 for nozzle
Also have a line .. may be a bit of a tight spot.... but have just set another going in case it wasnt
Soon be running out of the supplied filament so will be waiting ... hopefully not too long
ChrisBailey
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The filament that comes with the printer is rubbish. You will have better results with decent filament.
badabec
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My son bought me an Ender 3 v2. I built it, switched it on, set bed to 60 and nozzle to 220 and started printing.
Surprisingly for me, I didn't fiddle with anything, didn't modify, just pressed go.
I auto home, switch off, then slide a sheet of 80g/square metre paper under the nozzle. Adjust the knobs until it lightly grips in all four corners. Switch back on and print.
For very flat items, e.g. the reed for a duck call, I smear UHU Stic over the centre of the bed.
My son went through all the 'upgrades' on his Ender 3 v2. He ditched them all and went back to basic.
Most of this lot are from thingiverse, the red caps are for closing cartridges of silicone or Gripfill. The small orange thing is a tippee top, spin it and it flips over and spins on the stem.
The blue thing is a brake setting tool for a Citroen DS (designed on Design Spark Mechanical) and the group of multicoloured identical parts are storing storing lathe toolholders, T1 size
Surprisingly for me, I didn't fiddle with anything, didn't modify, just pressed go.
I auto home, switch off, then slide a sheet of 80g/square metre paper under the nozzle. Adjust the knobs until it lightly grips in all four corners. Switch back on and print.
For very flat items, e.g. the reed for a duck call, I smear UHU Stic over the centre of the bed.
My son went through all the 'upgrades' on his Ender 3 v2. He ditched them all and went back to basic.
Most of this lot are from thingiverse, the red caps are for closing cartridges of silicone or Gripfill. The small orange thing is a tippee top, spin it and it flips over and spins on the stem.
The blue thing is a brake setting tool for a Citroen DS (designed on Design Spark Mechanical) and the group of multicoloured identical parts are storing storing lathe toolholders, T1 size
slim_boy_fat
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Don't send that file to the 'Vark - he might not have a printer but would probably buy one just to produce it/them.
ajlelectronics
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I have another ABS print going. 245 and 110. Surface is rough again, so I 'tuned' it down to 240 and it looks a bit cleaner. Only four more hours to see if it is any good this time!
JMS1972
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Have a look for a temperature tower on thingiverse. There should be one for the Ender 3 helped me a lot when starting with PETG...
