- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
- Thread starter Robotstar5
- Start date
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
Managed to spend a few hours on the tractor today.
First off, a couple of "farmers repairs" need attention.
If your fan belt is too loose just unbolt the dynamo and wedge it on top of the adjuster bracket to take up the slack
New fan belt fitted and adjusted correctly, I did notice the dynamo was a bit noisy so will need looking at another day.
Broken battery terminal clamp, no problem if you have a hose clamp handy
New terminal clamps fitted to both
First off, a couple of "farmers repairs" need attention.
If your fan belt is too loose just unbolt the dynamo and wedge it on top of the adjuster bracket to take up the slack
New fan belt fitted and adjusted correctly, I did notice the dynamo was a bit noisy so will need looking at another day.
Broken battery terminal clamp, no problem if you have a hose clamp handy
New terminal clamps fitted to both
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
I wanted to dismount the silencer so the waterproof cover would fit, but although the silencer moved a bit it wouldn't pull off.
Rusted solid
After a lot of work with a thin chisel to open the "wings" up the silencer eventually slid off
Found out why the silencer would move around, look's like a new one for the shopping list
Fitted the obligatory beans tin to keep anything out of the stub while the silencer's off
Rusted solid
After a lot of work with a thin chisel to open the "wings" up the silencer eventually slid off
Found out why the silencer would move around, look's like a new one for the shopping list
Fitted the obligatory beans tin to keep anything out of the stub while the silencer's off
Bullet2012
Member
- Messages
- 4,927
- Location
- 238 855 miles from the moon
Boasting again
Gareth J
Member
- Messages
- 3,497
- Location
- North Cornwall
So now the original dust/dirt cover will fit properly
I always thought they were to keep the oil in! hoho
Nice tractor...
I've been playing with Fergies for the last 35 years - its my "other" hobby. Currently got a 3 TE's, a 1951 TVO, 1954 diesel and a 1947 Continental petrol engine owned for years but my current resto project. (also a Fordson somewhere..)
Would recomend the Friends of Ferguson Heritage - very good forum if a little quiet these days.
The PTO cover is the larger one, original ones are smaller still. If you want to keep the larger PTO oversize covers available everywhere. Anglo Agriparts, Agriline and Old 20 Parts Co are some of the better parts people, but there are loads, and prices very hugely, even for the identical part so shop around.
The only thing I'd warn you of is the dangers of TVO - it can kill an engine far too easily. They need to be REALLY HOT to run well on it, like ploughing, not small runs. It partially burns, and bypasses the rings and ends up diluting the oil. Not a big problem in itself, but the cam runs directly in the iron block (no bushes or bearings) and starves of oil... then the oil pressure drops and no oil gets to the valve gear. It is far better to unbolt the heat shield from the exhaust and run on straight petrol.
You dont get the smell, but it will live longer...
Also. is it still 6v or has it been changed to 12v?
I've been playing with Fergies for the last 35 years - its my "other" hobby. Currently got a 3 TE's, a 1951 TVO, 1954 diesel and a 1947 Continental petrol engine owned for years but my current resto project. (also a Fordson somewhere..)
Would recomend the Friends of Ferguson Heritage - very good forum if a little quiet these days.
The PTO cover is the larger one, original ones are smaller still. If you want to keep the larger PTO oversize covers available everywhere. Anglo Agriparts, Agriline and Old 20 Parts Co are some of the better parts people, but there are loads, and prices very hugely, even for the identical part so shop around.
The only thing I'd warn you of is the dangers of TVO - it can kill an engine far too easily. They need to be REALLY HOT to run well on it, like ploughing, not small runs. It partially burns, and bypasses the rings and ends up diluting the oil. Not a big problem in itself, but the cam runs directly in the iron block (no bushes or bearings) and starves of oil... then the oil pressure drops and no oil gets to the valve gear. It is far better to unbolt the heat shield from the exhaust and run on straight petrol.
You dont get the smell, but it will live longer...
Also. is it still 6v or has it been changed to 12v?
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
Thanks for the TVO tip, it will only be used for pulling a wheeled flail mower and some small chain harrows round the paddock for less than an hour so it sounds like sticking to petrol is the best idea?. The heat shield only had one bolt in it so I have ordered another but it sounds like I'm best leaving it off.
Can you recommend a spark plug for the TVO engine?, original would have been Champion N7 and cross reference charts show N4C as suitable?
I'm more familiar with NGK, I have BP6ES in mine, my plug chart shows Champion N10Y as an equivalent, but it might be outdated info. First I would check if it is an original TED or a TEA petrol converted - lots of kits were available at the time, even a factory one. Main difference is the head - a TED is long reach plugs but a TEA is short reach. A TED head has a block cast between spark plugs 2&3.
TBH they're not that fussy on plugs, you have more problems with poor quality condensers and rotor arms. Also if its running a 12v battery some of the ignition system may still be 6v.
Suggest you get condensers and arms from Distributor Dr (http://www.distributordoctor.com/) directly - better than most other dealers
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
I'm pretty sure it's an original TED,
Factory build plate
Logbook has it down as "Heavy oil"
Is this the block between cyls 2 & 3?
Thanks for the link to distributor parts and I will have a look to see if it has any 6 volt bits left on
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
The guy who owns the stables has a couple of tractors, maybe I could ask to borrow one when I get fed up of fixing mine
This one of them...
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
yep... definitely a TED....
but.... that serial number doesnt match that tractor.....
the number dates to 1954, the tractor is 6v and dates before 1951. Not a big deal but it might be a problem with paperwork.
the number on the original docs is the engine number, should be stamped on the engine between coil and oil filler, check if it matches.
Also on the rear axle casting rhs near the rear dipstick is a casting code which will date the build
but.... that serial number doesnt match that tractor.....
the number dates to 1954, the tractor is 6v and dates before 1951. Not a big deal but it might be a problem with paperwork.
the number on the original docs is the engine number, should be stamped on the engine between coil and oil filler, check if it matches.
Also on the rear axle casting rhs near the rear dipstick is a casting code which will date the build
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
The serial number did confuse me as I was looking at build data on one of the forums and I couldn't match my engine No. to the serial number on their chart so I have a mismatch somewhere.
I will have to look for the casting code on the axle casing.
The engine No. matches the logbook
There is a casting code on the other side of the block if that means anything. Top line is: DA1027 then 6 or G, bottom line is: 56238 (I know the big "85" refers to the 85mm bore)
Bravheart
"Tomorrow will be a good day"captain Tom1920-2021
- Messages
- 855
- Location
- Scotland
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
A nice period addition turned up in the post this morning, I've just got to find a fountain pen and ink to fill in the details.
I didn't realise farm vehicles had their own style discs and road tax was £2 a year while cars were £10 a year at the time.
I didn't realise farm vehicles had their own style discs and road tax was £2 a year while cars were £10 a year at the time.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
£2 a year Robbo, are you sure you can afford it
When I did the V5 transfer into my name it said I had to tax it so followed the link and as it's historic class it cost £0 to tax it for a year
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
