MGB GT Restoration

[atomant48]

They bolt straight on but you have to modify the steering column as the angle changes. It's a while since I did my son's but it was straightforward enough. I think we still have the spare cross member if you want one?

Thanks WSW. That's a kind offer. I'm away at the moment but I might take you up later on. G

 

[Springerdinger]

Changed to 0.6 wire today while working on the other side of the engine bay. The reasoning behind this is the thickness of the metal on the inner wing pressing.

It came out ok definatly easier on the very thin metal than point 0.8

Had to have a good practice to get the feed speed adjusted.
Generally I prefer 0.8 as I find it looks better after the flapper disc has been over it.
Going to stick with the 0.6 for now though as there is some finer detail when coming up

Few pictures below

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Took me a s second to work out the Asda template.

 

[Springerdinger]

Took me a s second to work out the Asda template.

For some reason I couldn't get a good arc off it. ...haha...

 

[Springerdinger]

You join us live from the garage as we strip paint.
Which is just as bad as watching it dry. ..
Such fun

 

[norsa]

Its a messy process however you tackle it

 

[Springerdinger]

Decided to finish off a job on the door post that I have been putting off for a while.

A good while back I made the basic box shape but didn't drill amd tap a thicker plate to screw the hinges too and then weld it in place.

So these are the pictures all together for the door post. Think it's the A post. I never get it right.

It does mean I can get the passenger door skin on the frame and back on the car which is the next job I think

 

[norsa]

looking good. yes it is the A post. Love skinning doors. dont forget to twist it to shape before welding and sealing.
Nick,

 

[Springerdinger]

So over the weekend I sort out another area of the engine bay
This one fought me all the way.
It wasn't so much rust as very thin metal.
I had noticed a hare line crack in the steel after removing some old filler
I cut out what I thought was the thin area and put in some new metal.
Just as I was finishing up I blew through the top corner of the repair where it joined the body

I tried to fill the hole however it was clear there was still very thin metal in that area.
The reason for this was I think an old restoration where a previous owner had sanded or ground down the metal down
So Basically I cut out all the work I had done that day and redo it Bigger.
Belt and braces as they say

 

[Springerdinger]

Next Picture is the lead loading kit
This is to work in around the joins of the roof and a few other areas

I could use filler I know its as good these days however it looks like an opportunity to learn something new

When I removed the old roof there was some lead loading over the joins.
I noticed in that under the lead lead work the metal was still in pristine condition so could be good.
I might make a video of this at some point. Could be a comedy video or it might be useful.

 

[jpmillermatic]

be watching this....never tried it before, either....

nice work!

JP

 

[norsa]

best of luck. dont get the roof too hot or you will be in a world of trouble.
Nick

 

[atomant48]

Looking forward to this. I asked a local body shop about lead loading recently and they laughed.

 

[MG David]

Do you have an old panel you can try leading as practice?

The first time I tried leading it was straight onto the front wing of an MGB. The result was a mess and I caused some distortion. So I found out that these techniques require practice first.

I have some old bits of MGB body panel at my house in Warwick if you need any.

 

[norsa]

Whilst I applaud your sticking to traditional methods, when body lead and brass was used it was the only available material. Modern fillers are more than capable.
Nick

 

[Springerdinger]

Do you have an old panel you can try leading as practice?

The first time I tried leading it was straight onto the front wing of an MGB. The result was a mess and I caused some distortion. So I found out that these techniques require practice first.

I have some old bits of MGB body panel at my house in Warwick if you need any.

Hi David
Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that if that's ok.
I have done a lot of tinning over the years so not to worried about that part.
I had a practice last year on a job I did at work. The results were pretty good.
The new scary bit will be filling with it. That said if the tinning is good the lead should take
The rebuild is all about having fun and learning some new skills which means some old skills as well
Quite agree a bit of practice is a definate must

 

[Springerdinger]

Whilst I applaud your sticking to traditional methods, when body lead and brass was used it was the only available material. Modern fillers are more than capable.
Nick

Hi Nick
I would normally go straight for the filler.
The lead loading is something I'm curious to have a go at. I have a couple of areas on the rear quarter pillars to the roof where it should work well.
If it looks like going south I will chicken out.

Cheers
Chris

 

[jpmillermatic]

brave man!...

Ill be watching and rooting for you from across the pond.

JP

 

[airmech953]

Hi Nick
I would normally go straight for the filler.
The lead loading is something I'm curious to have a go at. I have a couple of areas on the rear quarter pillars to the roof where it should work well.
If it looks like going south I will chicken out.

Cheers
Chris

Just found this site ad read all 11pages! Very impressed. My 75 model B roadster is stripped and mounted on a rotisserie, with far less rust than your car. I was still worrying about how to tackle things. After seeing your work I ammore keen to get into it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Welcome aboard, fella