My new garage build thread.

[Exuptoy]

Yeah, gotta cut a few blocks as the space I need to fill like on my other window is bigger than the concrete commons I have, that should ensure that the lintel level for the small window will be the same finishing height as the large window. Can’t believe how well it’s worked out really.

 

[Barking Mat]

Good stuff,

It's nice when you see things progressing!

 

[Exuptoy]

Thanks fella, I update this thread but I can't help but feel it's not up to the standard of the work on here. It ain't rocket science and most good brickies would have it up in 3 or 4 days whereas this is dragging a bit.
I'll never make a bricky (too slow), but it's straight, I know it has been done right, and there are no crossed wires regarding sizes, openings etc to fall out over, and I'm enjoying it as it's different from my normal day to day routine. Just looking forward to making it water tight so I can get on with sorting the inside and getting my bike in there and having a clean workshop away from all the welding, grinding and painting stuff.

 

[gaz1]

others do all that they can its not there jobs

where im a more of a mixed builder but i do excel within certain jobs of the building trade

welding isnt my job so its a mixed area there for me

 

[Exuptoy]

Just looked back and this has taken 9 days to get from finished slab to where I am today and a few of those days were only 2-4 hours instead of my usual 8-10 hour days, so not too bad when all said and done.

 

[Exuptoy]

Just been up and removed the shutter. It’s cured enough to scrape the underside so it’s flush with the lintels so I’m happy to leave it open to cure tonight.

 

[Barking Mat]

Rome wasn't built in a day.

Just do the best you can.

It's so easy to look at what you do and see your little errors. This bugs me.

Then look at how pro's cock things up.

It's a garage, not a nuclear reactor.

You'll get there.

Just keep swimming, just keep swimming. (Nemo).

 

[Exuptoy]

Today’s work feels like I’ve been swimming uphill. Been out since 9:00 wrapped up at 6:30 and doesn’t feel like I’ve achieved much.

I have however sited and fixed in the window, done a little bit of block work around it and put a course of concrete commons across the lintels. I suppose work done now is less to do later!

 

[Pete.]

View attachment 187841

Which of those two trailers is stuck there forever?

 

[Exuptoy]

Haha. Neither. Once the garage is complete my bike is going in there and the trailers and cement mixer will be in the other garage with the camper. I might actually do some work on the bus then

 

[Exuptoy]

Been playing this morning, trying to see how it’s gonna look and if the fall is too much or whether it would overshoot a gutter.

I know the accepted fall is 1:40 for a flat roof. I was (just for simplicity) gonna do the fall across 3m at one block depth (225mm).

Thinking it would be too much I’ve stuck a piece of timber up with a concrete common under it so the fall over 3m is roughly 140mm or 1:20. Not sure if this would be acceptable or still too much as 1:40 would be just 75mm fall across 3m.

Anyone have experience of putting on a flat roof or even have an opinion on if this would be acceptable? To my eyes I don’t think it looks too extreme.

The 225x75 timber ties in nicely with a block height (or a brick as shown below).

 

[Climber]

I think you are doing alright. I spent a whole summer a few years ago building my garden office. A bit like you though, I'm not a builder, I'm a business / marketing consultant.

 

[MCKDAVID]

I'm no builder either, but I've put up a couple of outhouses, basically farm type sheds, where by other constraints dictating that the roof has been relatively flat angled, and 10 years on they've been fine. I'm sure those in the know would be more concerned, but I went with as much as I could away from flat and called it done, the water runs off them that was my main concern.

 

[gaz1]

raise your back end up to the barge board it will make it easier to seal up everything

half that block as you got insulation to go in

fasten some netting on the beams underneath them

hardest part buy insulation rolls and your osb boards and breathable felt roll

get things ready with the rolls, pick a dry days get your rolls in and overlap your concrete wall

cut the rolls into size of between your rafters 14" so you need 16" centers on your rafters

then fit your insulation in as netting holds it in place

then fit your osb boards dont forget to overlap your osb boards strengthens your roof just like block work so you have an idea

then fit your breathable felt over your boards ready for your metal roofing to go over them

 

[Exuptoy]

Sorry, I should have mentioned my requirements for a roof, I’m going with a 40mm Trisomet insulated roof. Basically plastic coated corrugated sheet (33mm to the crown, 40mm insulation (think kingspan) then a flat plastic coated bottom sheet all sandwiched together at 73mm overall), this will have a z-flashing (a 75mm upstand, 175mm coverage over the roof and 150mm up under the old sheets on my other garage -so a total width flashing of 400mm) , and the 4x2 rafters (roughly 750mm centres) will span the joists (at 1067 centres to get 5 in my footprint and at 9x3 or 225x75 there should be more than enough support). I’m mainly concerned that my fall is sufficient and not over the top.

I have spoken to @roofman a little earlier who has since confirmed that what is suggested should be up to the job.

 

[roofman]

Sorry, I should have mentioned my requirements for a roof, I’m going with a 40mm Trisomet insulated roof. Basically plastic coated corrugated sheet (33mm to the crown, 40mm insulation (think kingspan) then a flat plastic coated bottom sheet all sandwiched together at 73mm overall), this will have a z-flashing (a 75mm upstand, 175mm coverage over the roof and 150mm up under the old sheets on my other garage -so a total width flashing of 400mm) , and the 4x2 rafters (roughly 750mm centres) will span the joists (at 1067 centres to get 5 in my footprint and at 9x3 or 225x75 there should be more than enough support). I’m mainly concerned that my fall is sufficient and not over the top.

I have spoken to @roofman a little earlier who has since confirmed that what is suggested should be up to the job.

Just a pity the mileage is a no no mate or i would of give you a days hand with it..I would consider once the up-stand flashing is fitted to the wall fitting a gutter from the roof above to eliminate rain water just cascading over...you could run the pipe down the new slope and into the bottom new gutter

 

[Exuptoy]

Appreciate the offer fella but I’ve come this far so it’s only advice I need at this point.

Like the sound of that with the gutters mate. Bit of lateral thinking.

 

[gaz1]

if you use the flashing from the new roof and fit it onto the fasia board the next roof above it will seal over it if you lightly push a 3" angle piece under the felt and over the new piece below this before you fasten your guttering on it

no more painting to do and will look really nice after

the suggested height earlier is to do 2 things something to fasten too but also saves pushing roof under it

one thing with guttering will need a clean out every 2 years to keep it clean just incase stuff gets in it

 

[Exuptoy]

Earlier this evening I took a photo out of the bedroom window and the fall of the roof is clear to see and is no worse than my old garage roof. Don’t know why I didn’t think of this earlier!
Quite happy with that so I now have a way forward once my wall plate timber bearers arrive. I already have the 9x3 joists so just waiting for them once I run a course of concrete commons along the long wall.

 

[gaz1]

lift it a bit higher if you can like i said its better to have a better fall on roofing than to have a shallow slope where the wind can blow it back to the foam inserts