123hotchef
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- Thread starter 123hotchef
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123hotchef
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I know you've done it but others might like to know how I've done things to give me a lot of options especially for later life . You could always make a heavy duty welded steel trolley on lockable castors & use that as a workbench cover it in edged 30 mm ply if you need to .. rip out all the kitchen worktops stuff and turn it into shelving , use longer shelf supports and take the shelves out to 450 mm wide .
It's kind of pointless having low to the floor cupboards under a work top , as you get older and your back and arms aren't so pliable & you start getting knee problems you'll understand much more what I'm on about ..So much space is wasted if you set the bottom area up in fixed cupboards and your forever wondering which cupboard the thing you want is in .
I've even resorted to using 90 kg triple extending sliding roller drawer runners to have it so my boxed battery & power drills , grinders , lathe tools etc etc slide out from under a 44 mm thick by 600 deep planed floor joist shelve set up .
I also have three four drawer filing cabinets on 100mm lockable castors so they can be moved about easily if needed ( In fact all my machinery is on steel angle iron boarded out frames & 100 mm hard nylon 90 kg lockable castors ) . Instead of using shelf brackets at the outer edges I used breeze blocks on a damp proof membrane , mortared up to support the planks and slipped a 20 mm ply reinforced separator in the middle of the 9 foot run ... I have climbed on these shelves a couple of times ..I'm 17 stone 2 pounds ...
69 & 1/2 yr old & knackered .
If I want a big bench I just have to wheel my 10 mm 1200 x 900 welding bench outside , undo the "T" table clamping nut that the vise is mounted on , & lift it out it's mounting slot , I can stick one or two 20 mm or so by 2400 x 1200 plywood sheets on it & clamp 50x 50 or some steel box under some of the edges if needed for a greater rigidity or like I did the last time I needed a strong stable bench , four planed 2.4 mtr long 44 mm thick floor joists laid on th welding bench top tops and braced at the undersides with 50x 50 angle & the good old coach bolts .
In our old house there was one of the strong shelves mentioned above that had a top the same as my steel work bench on lockable castors , so if I wanted something very sturdy & bigger I used planed floor jousts off these shelves and out onto & just over the bench . the five planks were drilled & coach bolted using 5 mm by 50x 50 angle to keep them together & rigid . When I finished making four 1x 2 mtr tall bookshelves 400 deep out of planed floor joists with a sort of welsh dresser extra plank width across the lower half . Made an MDF hinge able jig to route everything out the same with accuracy .
It only took a few minutes to disassemble the bench , pop the coach bolts in a polybag and store them with the planks & reinforcing angle iron .
In case you are wondering about the real heavy duty book cases .....my wife was a specialist confidential information seeker working from home for a company , they sent forty or more magazines and most of the daily papers to her each week . Once Alison had done what was needed we had to store the dam things for six months and a week , just incase there were any questions asked about the information gleaned.
It's kind of pointless having low to the floor cupboards under a work top , as you get older and your back and arms aren't so pliable & you start getting knee problems you'll understand much more what I'm on about ..So much space is wasted if you set the bottom area up in fixed cupboards and your forever wondering which cupboard the thing you want is in .
I've even resorted to using 90 kg triple extending sliding roller drawer runners to have it so my boxed battery & power drills , grinders , lathe tools etc etc slide out from under a 44 mm thick by 600 deep planed floor joist shelve set up .
I also have three four drawer filing cabinets on 100mm lockable castors so they can be moved about easily if needed ( In fact all my machinery is on steel angle iron boarded out frames & 100 mm hard nylon 90 kg lockable castors ) . Instead of using shelf brackets at the outer edges I used breeze blocks on a damp proof membrane , mortared up to support the planks and slipped a 20 mm ply reinforced separator in the middle of the 9 foot run ... I have climbed on these shelves a couple of times ..I'm 17 stone 2 pounds ...
69 & 1/2 yr old & knackered . If I want a big bench I just have to wheel my 10 mm 1200 x 900 welding bench outside , undo the "T" table clamping nut that the vise is mounted on , & lift it out it's mounting slot , I can stick one or two 20 mm or so by 2400 x 1200 plywood sheets on it & clamp 50x 50 or some steel box under some of the edges if needed for a greater rigidity or like I did the last time I needed a strong stable bench , four planed 2.4 mtr long 44 mm thick floor joists laid on th welding bench top tops and braced at the undersides with 50x 50 angle & the good old coach bolts .
In our old house there was one of the strong shelves mentioned above that had a top the same as my steel work bench on lockable castors , so if I wanted something very sturdy & bigger I used planed floor jousts off these shelves and out onto & just over the bench . the five planks were drilled & coach bolted using 5 mm by 50x 50 angle to keep them together & rigid . When I finished making four 1x 2 mtr tall bookshelves 400 deep out of planed floor joists with a sort of welsh dresser extra plank width across the lower half . Made an MDF hinge able jig to route everything out the same with accuracy .
It only took a few minutes to disassemble the bench , pop the coach bolts in a polybag and store them with the planks & reinforcing angle iron .
In case you are wondering about the real heavy duty book cases .....my wife was a specialist confidential information seeker working from home for a company , they sent forty or more magazines and most of the daily papers to her each week . Once Alison had done what was needed we had to store the dam things for six months and a week , just incase there were any questions asked about the information gleaned.
123hotchef
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We were talking about a moveable work bench on castors with storage underneath the mrs said about having filing cabinets on a base with work top on top
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Just make sure the castors have some form of decent bearing in them and can take 100 kg each it's easy to fill decent two or three drawer steel cabinets with 100 kg in each cabinet . I've castorised with fully lockable 306 as well as the wheel 150 mm castors ...... my 10 foot heavy steel scaffold frame using the same sort of hard rubber wheels as you can find on the one ton dumpster lidded rubbish bins ... using a home made foot plate & stub axle bolted to each castor to give them a nine inch stub axle to slip up the tubes .
Just had a thought . if you cant get the old heavy two / three drawer drawer units . Would it be worth while cutting four drawer ones down & using angle iron to sort the cut edges on both cut edge sets . The modern light weigh office stuff is dismal and frequently comes apart on the sliders when loaded up .
Four cabinets with the drawers being as one drawer opening on each face of the block could be useful so could two on two opposite faces with a useful foot of shelf between the two back to back cabinets to give you a six foot by four foot platform to sit the work top on .. work top 5 to 10 mm plate with a lipped hardboard cover so you can use it for mucky work & welding or once wiped clean slip the hardboard cover over the table and have a clean top.
Just had a thought . if you cant get the old heavy two / three drawer drawer units . Would it be worth while cutting four drawer ones down & using angle iron to sort the cut edges on both cut edge sets . The modern light weigh office stuff is dismal and frequently comes apart on the sliders when loaded up .
Four cabinets with the drawers being as one drawer opening on each face of the block could be useful so could two on two opposite faces with a useful foot of shelf between the two back to back cabinets to give you a six foot by four foot platform to sit the work top on .. work top 5 to 10 mm plate with a lipped hardboard cover so you can use it for mucky work & welding or once wiped clean slip the hardboard cover over the table and have a clean top.
123hotchef
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what do you reakon 6 filling cabinets 3 back to back with a gap through the middle so not touching back to back then long metal stock could be stored in between the cabinets
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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You will have to have some sort of bracing in the middle or perhaps use six castors so the frame that holds the cabinets does not sag in the middle . You could space the three sets of cabinets to give you a 2 or three inch over hang at each end .. useful to clamp things to the top including a 4 inch vice on a bridged plate
Problem for you to consider
My filing cabinets are 2 foot deep IIRC a sheet of ply is 4 foot wide so you'd perhaps be best using a fairly thick wood to get a bigger sized bespoke bench top ( not B&Q pine if you can help it) Maybe tongue & grove that butts up well to run across the table and another run along it. Use the commercial expanding polystyrene glue to bond them together .. it's not as expensive as Gorilla glue ) IIRC Evode do such a glue or did when I built my log cabin office 15 years ago it was approx £15 a half litre squeeze bottle . You only need a scrape of the glue & a bit of pressure to get it to stick in 4 hrs or so . It cures very solid in 24 hrs .
If you have a decent router , saw bench , the money , time & inclination :- My local Jewson's did me a quality planed to 45 mm thick by 2.4 mtr white ash , for my seven x 6 foot 140 mm wide window cills ( cost inc vat £400 four months ago .. you could route out a slot on the adjacent faces and glue in (glue both faces as well ) good fit cut strips of the wood , set the end grains alternatively one up one down through out the top to stop it warping badly and put a decent dimensioned glued & well screwed up cross brace / strengtheners across each end . Floor joists planed up by them might be a lot cheaper .
I wouldn't go with reclaimed joists etc as you don't easily know if they carry fungus like dry rot or woodworm ( Or have been soaked in " gents toilet " water ....
you'll find out when it warms up in the workshop ) .
Just had a thought that might be worth checking out .. some timber merchants like Jewson have a bigger than 1200 x 2400 mm construction ply sheets if you ask them , think they might be 1500 x 3000 mm or even larger. Any gaps between the cabinets would need to be filled with a floor so any stored stock gets moved with the table . You might with care be able to put a second mid height shelf above the first .. handy to stop your block of stock getting so big , all being laid one bit on the other that you have to take out 3/4 of it to get to the size you can see .
Problem for you to consider
My filing cabinets are 2 foot deep IIRC a sheet of ply is 4 foot wide so you'd perhaps be best using a fairly thick wood to get a bigger sized bespoke bench top ( not B&Q pine if you can help it) Maybe tongue & grove that butts up well to run across the table and another run along it. Use the commercial expanding polystyrene glue to bond them together .. it's not as expensive as Gorilla glue ) IIRC Evode do such a glue or did when I built my log cabin office 15 years ago it was approx £15 a half litre squeeze bottle . You only need a scrape of the glue & a bit of pressure to get it to stick in 4 hrs or so . It cures very solid in 24 hrs .
If you have a decent router , saw bench , the money , time & inclination :- My local Jewson's did me a quality planed to 45 mm thick by 2.4 mtr white ash , for my seven x 6 foot 140 mm wide window cills ( cost inc vat £400 four months ago .. you could route out a slot on the adjacent faces and glue in (glue both faces as well ) good fit cut strips of the wood , set the end grains alternatively one up one down through out the top to stop it warping badly and put a decent dimensioned glued & well screwed up cross brace / strengtheners across each end . Floor joists planed up by them might be a lot cheaper .
I wouldn't go with reclaimed joists etc as you don't easily know if they carry fungus like dry rot or woodworm ( Or have been soaked in " gents toilet " water ....
you'll find out when it warms up in the workshop ) .Just had a thought that might be worth checking out .. some timber merchants like Jewson have a bigger than 1200 x 2400 mm construction ply sheets if you ask them , think they might be 1500 x 3000 mm or even larger. Any gaps between the cabinets would need to be filled with a floor so any stored stock gets moved with the table . You might with care be able to put a second mid height shelf above the first .. handy to stop your block of stock getting so big , all being laid one bit on the other that you have to take out 3/4 of it to get to the size you can see .
rosinante
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Leave room for an old armchair , somewhere to be comfy when in the doghouse, mdf makes a stable and cheap worktop , double up some 18mm and lip it with timber , varnish it and use it , remains flat and cheap to replace when all faces have been abused beyond acceptability, also good for life size project drawings , remove pencil lines with an eraser
Chris
Chris
123hotchef
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Roller paint it in ceiling brilliant white for a clean sheet , turn it over if you want to keep the drawing, I used to have a library of six or more 2.4 x 1.2 thin sheets of larch ply covered in full size drawings stood up against a wall . it helped to have the dimensions and actually match up the new made parts to the plan . That's where I discovered the rollering out of any drawing set in one go . After a while the buildup of the paint makes a real nice drawing surface.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I build a full covered in
yard cum carpentry shed with triple polycarb sheets &7 glazing bars for a roof along the side of our old bungalow using the H section 9 foot reinforced concrete post .. Made an infill of wood for each side which I used grip fill & clamped it for 24 hrs. each post to get it to set rock hard on to give me some thing to screw on the outer faced T&G cladding , gutters & fix the doors to. as well a numerous things on the internal walls .
The posts at the door were set in deeper as they had a home made double skin weather proof thin ply door a metre wide at each end . Across all the posts supporting the roof bar which was keyed into the bungalow wall & well sealed in ..... there was a 100 x 100 mm rail made with three 2.4's scarfed jointed glued & screwed to make the collar for rh roof bars to sit on when screwed down .
The glued infills on the both sides of the H section posts inside were longer than the outer ones so that I could sit the 100 x100 rail on the post tops and have something to coachbolt the rail to .
yard cum carpentry shed with triple polycarb sheets &7 glazing bars for a roof along the side of our old bungalow using the H section 9 foot reinforced concrete post .. Made an infill of wood for each side which I used grip fill & clamped it for 24 hrs. each post to get it to set rock hard on to give me some thing to screw on the outer faced T&G cladding , gutters & fix the doors to. as well a numerous things on the internal walls .
The posts at the door were set in deeper as they had a home made double skin weather proof thin ply door a metre wide at each end . Across all the posts supporting the roof bar which was keyed into the bungalow wall & well sealed in ..... there was a 100 x 100 mm rail made with three 2.4's scarfed jointed glued & screwed to make the collar for rh roof bars to sit on when screwed down .
The glued infills on the both sides of the H section posts inside were longer than the outer ones so that I could sit the 100 x100 rail on the post tops and have something to coachbolt the rail to .
123hotchef
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123hotchef
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123hotchef
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This evening i got rid of the off cuts and fixed the vice to.the bench
123hotchef
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123hotchef
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did a little more over the weekend we got the guttering up before it rained 2 buts filled in under 1 hour! i need more buts!
also got the back door on and the door jam for the front and rear doors so it is now water tight
also got the back door on and the door jam for the front and rear doors so it is now water tight
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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123hotchef
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nice butts
123hotchef
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Started on the shelving under the lean too section tonight!
123hotchef
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Concealed electrolis rust removal tank for starters. Still need a parts washer the brat pan is far to big for my space unfortunately so it has to go to fund a smaller one. I may make one not sure yet. The blasting cabinet will also live here somewhere.
