Replacing Rusty Bits

[RaceDiagnostics]

I would let the weather dictate, if we get a warm dry spell (unlikely) then epoxy the engine bay, if not push on. I'm waiting for 10 degrees+ before doing any epoxy.

Your pushing on well, once I'm finished my inner wing and sill I will move onto the windscreen frame then over to investigate whats under the other wing and sill.

I'm just a bit hacked off with myself that I didn't paint the engine bay when the engine was out 6 years ago. It is a bit of a monster to get in and out.

 

[Burdekin]

Good thinking.

I'll also rebuild the gearbox while I've got it out this time.

I'm easily distracted so need to keep focused on what I'm doing. I have my little black book of jobs for the Amazon which keeps growing. Want her back on the road for next spring.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I'm shooting for May 2018 too, I'm not sure if I will get everything done that I want to before then, but whatever is not done (like rear axel/suspension/diff/subframe rebuild) will have to wait as I want the car back on the road.

The rest will get done when I retire in May 2020. I originally planned to do the entire resto when I was retired and this job started off as a simple wing swap which has just got carried away.

 

[Burdekin]

I'm a bit the same. Bodywork and paint has to be sorted 100% and then I can tinker with the mechanicals etc as I go.

 

[Burdekin]

Started on the front section that connects to the inner wing and front chassis leg this afternoon. Removed most of the paint, rust and a previous dodgy patch. Have to decide if I repair it so it is all like original which will mean removing the front corner panel to do or whether I delete the flanges which connect it all and repair and weld it all in place. Probably will remove the panel I think.

 

[james butler]

looking good!

 

[Burdekin]

Some deconstructing tonight, better than I thought. Will start making the repairs etc tomorrow night.

 

[Burdekin]

Bit of progress tonight. Welded up one repair and started making the other patch repair.

Hopefully back in the workshop on Sunday after watching Scotland kick some Welsh butt. ;-)

 

[slim_boy_fat]

after watching Scotland kick some Welsh butt. ;-)

 

[slim_boy_fat]

after watching Scotland kick some Welsh butt. ;-)

Job jobbed .......29 - 13

 

[Burdekin]

Woo hoo, awesome game and the best atmosphere I've ever experienced at Murrayfield.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I didn't see anybody in the crowd who looked like this.

Don't overdo the electric soup tonight.......

 

[Burdekin]

You should have been looking for an extremely handsome ginger ;-)

Maybe a couple when we get home...

 

[james butler]

hi burdekin, i see the grinder in the background but what are you using to clean up your welds? they look great!
ive been using grinding disks followed by flap wheels but sometimes end up taking too much of the parent material away before the weld is flush making the joint weak.
any advice you can give me?

 

[Mee]

James, use resin bonded discs on a flexible backing pad, cheap as chips and you can get coarse to very fine.

 

[Burdekin]

hi burdekin, i see the grinder in the background but what are you using to clean up your welds? they look great!
ive been using grinding disks followed by flap wheels but sometimes end up taking too much of the parent material away before the weld is flush making the joint weak.
any advice you can give me?

James I use a range of stuff, flap discs are great for knocking them down quickly and then a mini air sander with about 80grit roloc pads are great for getting them flat I have this one https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/sealey-air-mini-sander-kit-50mm-35pc?gclid=CI-LkNWDrNICFUccGwod-J4FMw these pads are great for getting them a bit smoother http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLOC-75m...hash=item1eabb3e4f5:m:md5gi7zebaJjqn2uDUIwofw also fine grit on a mini air Da sander will get them really smooth https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/pow...s/fos003mk-3inch-orbital-sander/p/KBE2702103K

I sometimes will just finish them with a file and a sanding block. A power file is also very handy. Be careful, concentrate on grinding the weld and use touch to feel what you're doing.

 

[james butler]

makes sense keep up the good work

 

[Burdekin]

Bit of progress this afternoon. Welded in the repair section and welded up the chassis rail repair. Slow going but bit by bit.

 

[Tim.S]

Lovely work, I've spent 3yrs on and off welding up my 1962 Volvo p1800 and when I think the welding's over I find more rust and holes, I wish you all the best and keep up the good work.

 

[Burdekin]

If you have room I would buy two. It's cheaper, like you said you can run one if you only need one and it's possible to put them on different ring mains also.

I'll probably just get this one, other guys on here have it and recommend it for the price: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/lho/Wolf...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QHTFQCXYN1QX3K9Z1J6P

Lovely work, I've spent 3yrs on and off welding up my 1962 Volvo p1800 and when I think the welding's over I find more rust and holes, I wish you all the best and keep up the good work.

I've also done loads of welding on my P1800, and still loads left. They are harder to repair as everything is welded together and they do like to rust.