Show us your best welding

[Tinbasherdan]

Aye, it is hard trying to keep everything thing green, with arc length colour being within the shroud itself.

When I tried the kit you see in image for the first time, I was bloody awefull, so were a few others on the course. It is only when you have a few hours in, the better you are and, you begin to realise the virtue of virtual.

At least you have had a go with virtual, did you use same brand posted?

Couldn’t tell you what breed it was to be fair. Part of me wants to say Lincoln but I couldn’t promise it

 

[Rrunnach]

Could have been, LE kit their usual, red, including portable kit, the Fronius, which is their portable kit, too (hence on dining room table to calibrate) is grey in colour.

At the moment, both brands only do MMA and MIG/MAGS. I know LE were working on adding TIG to their VW menu, I imagine Fronius are doing the same?

This technology will continue to evolve, which should also bring down, cost.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

I might get round to having another play with one some time

 

[Rrunnach]

She's still on it, now on VW pipe @ 6G

 

[zeppelin builder]

here is a manualy welded 4 inch 6mo in an awkward situation hence the use of a monkey mask walked cap with 1.6mm wire its only 5mm wall thickness so root and cap only. you can see the gap lit up under the masking tape tape is to hold the internal purge its removed as welding progresses

 

[smashweld]

Got a Parweld acdctig in March...still learning. Think the best thing with tig is going back over the mistakes with only the torch to smooth things out...kinda like tippex!
This is some 2mm sheet...got plenty to practice on as use it for panels on other jobs

 

[Richard.]

Think the best thing with tig is going back over the mistakes with only the torch to smooth things out..

It’s not a great idea to do so in a lot of instances.*
Every time you go back over the joint you increase the size of the HAZ.
Messing about with bits of plate it’s not gonna hurt but with something designed to take load do it once only on single pass work. If its a little lumpy or untidy you’d be better off fettling it with an abrasive to blend or neaten rather than going back over it with a welder.
* there are obviously times where we multi pass and certainly on thicker sections it’s required to go over and over to fill a joint. In these cases it’s the norm to work to interpass temps to keep heat input down and mechanicals up.
Aluminium is particularly weak when there is over sized haz going on. I’ve seen it many times tear like paper right down the side of the joint when people have unnecessarily welded over and over it.

 

[davidjohnperry]

@zeppelin builder I wanna learn your skills

 

[Rrunnach]

Sorry, just re-read, actually, user does not look at screen, screen is there for playback and audience purposes, in fact, setup can be linked to an interactive screen. All clever stuff.

 

[zeppelin builder]

again manual Ti free hand

 

[Hood]

again manual Ti free hand View attachment 141741

Yer no bad, mannie

 

[zeppelin builder]

Yer no bad, mannie

aye my pal was asked : are you the best welder around .? no he said il settle for second best . why is that he was asked ?well i havent ever met number one yet !

 

[davidjohnperry]

Hero

 

[angellonewolf]

again manual Ti free hand View attachment 141741

im thinking you might have done this before

 

[smashweld]

It’s not a great idea to do so in a lot of instances.*
Every time you go back over the joint you increase the size of the HAZ.
Messing about with bits of plate it’s not gonna hurt but with something designed to take load do it once only on single pass work. If its a little lumpy or untidy you’d be better off fettling it with an abrasive to blend or neaten rather than going back over it with a welder.
* there are obviously times where we multi pass and certainly on thicker sections it’s required to go over and over to fill a joint. In these cases it’s the norm to work to interpass temps to keep heat input down and mechanicals up.
Aluminium is particularly weak when there is over sized haz going on. I’ve seen it many times tear like paper right down the side of the joint when people have unnecessarily welded over and over it.

with that in mind..
what would be best to try remedy a lumpy/cold weld on (3mm) alu?

grind and re-do?

scrap?

 

[Richard.]

Unfortunately the redo or reweld bit is the risky bit unless you chop out the haz which usually results in the parts then been too short. If it’s just an appearance thing and the weld is sound I’d just tidy it up with abrasives.
If the weld is actually no good at all then it’s chop it right out including the haz ideally and re weld it. You can always apply a bit of common sense though tbh. If it’s a guard simply covering a belt or chain or something doing a very low load or low stress application then just tidy it up with the welder and it doesn’t matter.
If it’s a repair to your friends push bike frame or go kart chassis then you don’t start exaggerating the haz. Like I say it can tear right across the haz area if you apply too much heat input so you’ve just got to play on the side of caution.
It’s best to practice and get it right first run.

 

[D5meister]

Annoyingly good.

Got to get me some of those robo spaz goggles!

 

[M K]

Been at my ally welding job 6 months now and coming along nicely

All self taught at home before that then got better day by day

Still needs tidying up but happy how it’s coming along

 

[M K]

The threaded boss in the last pic was not welded by me by the way

The rest is all by me and made from scratch from bare sheet, tube and the bare cores

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Some lovely work there Mk