Simple Tig Cooler

[dazza]

Maybe you have bigger bore pipes on the torch than mine or maybe there is less restriction in the torch head, certainly seems to be almost double the flow for the same pressure.

Read articles that say 0.9L/min is the optimum, others seem to converge on 1.2L/min, Parweld never got back to me (second email they have ignored ) so not sure what they would have said.

If i wasnt so far away i would send you my torch to compare as mine is a parweld. Is 50/60 psi ok whats the max these torches can take.

 

[dazza]

the OD of the small pipe is just over 6mm, large power pipe 12mm. This is 8meters long.

 

[Hood]

I think around 50 is what most say so 60 shouldn't be a problem. The bore of the fittings on mine were I think 4mm on hot and 3mm on cold, OD of hose for cold was about 6mm. It could just be a different pump so you get more volume for the same pressure.

 

[Richard.]

Don't really want to buy a mechanical gauge, but don't to damage the torch either, Don't know how much more i can back it off. @Richard. any thoughts on this?

I've never fit such devices to any of mine. I measure what I'm getting out the torch into a jug and providing it's there or there abouts it's boxed up and not worried about.

 

[Richard.]

Guys your getting a bit concerned about these pressure readings and there is really no need.
Yes you want 1-2lpm return on the flow side of things but you don't need to start setting pressure values up. It's almost as if your setting your pressure at 50-60 psi as a priority and letting the flow rate be what it is.
The only reason that pressure is stated by torch manufacturers is because it needs that as a minimum to get your minimum FLOW RATE which is important.
if your getting 2lpm out the torch and your not bursting lines then the pressure figure doesn't matter in the slightest.

 

[dazza]

Guys your getting a bit concerned about these pressure readings and there is really no need.
Yes you want 1-2lpm return on the flow side of things but you don't need to start setting pressure values up. It's almost as if your setting your pressure at 50-60 psi as a priority and letting the flow rate be what it is.
The only reason that pressure is stated by torch manufacturers is because it needs that as a minimum to get your minimum FLOW RATE which is important.
if your getting 2lpm out the torch and your not bursting lines then the pressure figure doesn't matter in the slightest.

I was just trying to get 2LPM seems dead on now but should i drop the LPM a little more?

 

[Richard.]

I was just trying to get 2LPM seems dead on now but should i drop the LPM a little more?

No need mate. 2lpm is in a nice range. Leave it as is and get that tank sorted.

 

[dazza]

Leave it as is and get that tank sorted.

That was the plan but the arduino wires were all over the place so had a temporary tidy up until i can get everything soldered together.

And finally got ready to weld the outlet on the tank.

 

[Jim Davey]

Id be tempted to braze/solder that.

 

[dazza]

Made a right mess of that burnt through on the very first run, slipped and due to the shape of the tin the aluminium was not against the stainless.

 

[Richard.]

Made a right mess of that burnt through on the very first run, slipped and due to the shape of the tin the aluminium was not against the stainless.

View attachment 99924 View attachment 99925
View attachment 99926

I assume that's the outtake to the pump?
There is no reason it needs to sit that low so long as it's plenty below the water level you could of put that much closer to the half way point thus allowing you to get the heat sink firmly on the underside.
Looks knackered now. Is it recoverable or are you gonna get another half?

 

[dazza]

I assume that's the outtake to the pump?
There is no reason it needs to sit that low so long as it's plenty below the water level you could of put that much closer to the half way point thus allowing you to get the heat sink firmly on the underside.
Looks knackered now. Is it recoverable or are you gonna get another half?

Yes its the outtake.

I don't know if its recoverable, how would you fill a hole like that? I thought about putting a piece of stainless steel washer on the other side.

I bought two spares already drilled and cut another one ready for after i put the kids in bed. I may try without filler. Moved this one up a bit.

 

[Richard.]

I may try without filler. Moved this one up a bit.

The filler didn't cause you to burn through daz.
Without it, you'll suffer more in this area.
Just ensure your heat sink is firmly clamped up. You managed fine on the top half.

 

[dazza]

The filler didn't cause you to burn through daz.
Without it, you'll suffer more in this area.
Just ensure your heat sink is firmly clamped up. You managed fine on the top half.

I only did a few dabs of filler here and there on this one. I can move much quicker when i'm not doing two things at once.

 

[Richard.]

I only did a few dabs of filler here and there on this one. I can move much quicker when i'm not doing two things at once.

Your choice mate.
I'd adopt a filled weld there for sure given this is the most important one as far as been water tight is concerned. If your moving too slow to fill your current is too low.

 

[dazza]

70 Amps for the tacks then 60. Think it looks better than my last attempt using 50 amps. Will keep the burnt through tin as a test piece drill some more holes and get some practising done.

 

[Jim Davey]

It's a silver solder job that.

 

[Richard.]

It's a silver solder job that.

Its a very weldable one too.

 

[Paul.]

The problem with silver solder using a flame is that its a high heat input process, although doable the heat spread and resultant distortion will likely cause more problems than it solves, As Richard says, a perfectly weldable joint and one that I have made more times than I care to remember.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Everyone works differently how would people go about dealing with the hole to be filled?

1, clean up and re weld till its just the hole left.
2, ignore trying to fill the hole and run a bead of filler around the edge.
3, then work around in a circular until the hole is filled.
4, clean up then finish bead around fitting.

Would anyone have a different approach?