Simple Tig Cooler

[Paul.]

Would anyone have a different approach?

Melt the end of the filler rod into a ball keeping it inside the gas shield till it cools, put it in the hole and melt it into the weld.

 

[dazza]

It's a silver solder job that.

Everyone works differently how would people go about dealing with the hole to be filled?

1, clean up and re weld till its just the hole left.
2, ignore trying to fill the hole and run a bead of filler around the edge.
3, then work around in a circular until the hole is filled.
4, clean up then finish bead around fitting.

Would anyone have a different approach?

I may try filling the hole tomorrow doubt i will be able to do it though.

 

[dazza]

Did a bit better with the mk 2. Ended up using 70 amps.

Do you think it needs a quick run around tucking the gaps in?

 

[Paul.]

If it doesn't leak then leave it alone, no point in risking another blowthrough or more distortion.

 

[Richard.]

Yeah as above. Bung the hole and fill her up.
If it doesn't leak leave it.

 

[dazza]

Tank is done.

So far no leaks. Holds just over 3 litres.

Now i need to decide what goes where.

Thanks again for all your help guys.

 

[dazza]

Spoke too soon. There is a leak from the filler neck.

Can i zip around this without taking the tank apart?

 

[Richard.]

Tank is done.

So far no leaks. Holds just over 3 litres.

Now i need to decide what goes where.

Thanks again for all your help guys.

View attachment 99979 View attachment 99980

That looks great. I really like the fact you can unbolt it and give it a nice wipe out as part of maintainence. I would suggest you get some Pickle paste and pasivate properly the inside where you welded to avoid any risk of corrosion. While your on although not so critical you could do the weld faces too.
Nice job that Daz. Very well done.

 

[Richard.]

Spoke too soon. There is a leak from the filler neck.

Can i zip around this without taking the tank apart?

View attachment 99984

How is it leaking from the filler neck? Surely you ain't filling it that high.

 

[dazza]

That looks great. I really like the fact you can unbolt it and give it a nice wipe out as part of maintainence. I would suggest you get some Pickle paste and pasivate properly the inside where you welded to avoid any risk of corrosion. While your on although not so critical you could do the weld faces too.
Nice job that Daz. Very well done.

Thanks Rich it does not look too bad. Will get some Pickle paste.

How is it leaking from the filler neck? Surely you ain't filling it that high.

The water level is 1cm below the top of the tank must be pressure in the tank?

 

[Richard.]

Thanks Rich it does not look too bad. Will get some Pickle paste.


The water level is 1cm below the top of the tank must be pressure in the tank?

In all honesty if it was mine all those joints would be water tightlike the dozens I've made. That said the one joint that actually doesn't need to be water tight has got a leak.
Yes I would probably fix it just because that's me but you don't need to. Keep the level below that weld, put a tiny hole in the top of the cap if you want to relive any pressure buildup and it should never cause you a problem.

 

[Jim Davey]

Would it not have been easier to fabricate a tank out of some 1.5mm? That gasket joint between the two halves of the tank looks a bit like trouble waiting to happen.

 

[Richard.]

I quite like the idea of the joint making it split. If he's made a good job of the gaskit I don't see why it would cause a problem.
Iirc the tig coolant itself shouldn't hurt it as it's designed for rubber lines.

 

[dazza]

Would it not have been easier to fabricate a tank out of some 1.5mm? That gasket joint between the two halves of the tank looks a bit like trouble waiting to happen.

If my welding improves i will try and make a better one.. one day.

 

[dazza]

Fixed hopefully.

 

[dazza]

After a quick gasket change the tank is now holding up well. No leaks. But the back of the welds had already started to rust. Tried a few places today to get some pickling paste they had no idea what i was talking about. I doubt they would post this internationally.

 

[Richard.]

After a quick gasket change the tank is now holding up well. No leaks. But the back of the welds had already started to rust. Tried a few places today to get some pickling paste they had no idea what i was talking about. I doubt they would post this internationally.

I knew this would be the case if those joints were not treated properly to remove the heat tint and any possible signs if coking.
I'd suggest you clean them up. Remove all signs of oxides and heat tint and coking etc. Get it all off and give it a nice going over with scotch brute until it's all bright stainless on both sides. Pickling paste would be ideal but you might get away with it by removal of surface oxides only.

 

[Richard.]

This is what I'm talking about Daz.
It's covered in black oxides where you should of had better back side protection or a purge and you have a ring of heat tint around there too. All this needs to go if your to stand a chance With that holding water and not rusting.

 

[Paul.]

A good stainless rotary wire brush will make a world of difference to the back of a weld, I use these in a drill or on my little bench polisher
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/abrasive-circular-brushes/0779295/

a few different ones here, you could probably find them cheaper but these are very good quality
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=stainless+wire+brush&sra=oss&r=t

 

[dazza]

I knew this would be the case if those joints were not treated properly to remove the heat tint and any possible signs if coking.
I'd suggest you clean them up. Remove all signs of oxides and heat tint and coking etc. Get it all off and give it a nice going over with scotch brute until it's all bright stainless on both sides. Pickling paste would be ideal but you might get away with it by removal of surface oxides only.

I did give them a bit of a tidy up .