Stuff you have fixed today

[rcx132]

Not quite a fix, more of an upgrade. I'm converting the hinges on my Suzuki Samurai jeep to dislocating type so that I can remove the doors for summer. The jeep already has a drop down windscreen, not sure why Suzuki held back on making the doors removable as well.

The top hinge is original, bottom one is converted.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Maybe, with the doors closed and fitted they form part of the crumple zone .

 

[Edward Teach]

I recently replaced the LED lights either side of my garage door,
One did not work at all, the other was rather dim
The other day I took one apart and noticed that one LED had a black spot in its 'yellow' part,
Assuming this is the 'burnt' 'broken' part.

This morning I had a go at repairing it,
I used a solder iron to heat the LED and remove it,
Leaving two solder pads on the circuit board,
I then joined these two pads together with a dab of solder.
Bridging the circuit.

I know it may not last long, because the other LED's are now being worked harder, having the same power supplied to less LED's,
But, lets see how long they will last,
These cheap lights lasted two or three years from what I can remember.


The black spot

The rather dim LED

The repaired LED

Much brighter now

 

[Edward Teach]

Maybe, with the doors closed and fitted they form part of the crumple zone .

I did think that they may lift off, when the doors were on, and shut, but its a rag top type,
As long as they don't fall off when driving

 

[My Old Landy]

I don't know if you would say fixed, but I have made my welding/cutting area usable I will have to wait for someone to help lift the smaller table off the top as I can't lift it myself

 

[bricol]

Not quite a fix, more of an upgrade. I'm converting the hinges on my Suzuki Samurai jeep to dislocating type so that I can remove the doors for summer. The jeep already has a drop down windscreen, not sure why Suzuki held back on making the doors removable as well.

The top hinge is original, bottom one is converted.

Probably part of construction and use, especially if the side mirrors are bolted to the doors.

Lift off sidescreens on a Caterham have to be secured so they can't be lifted off in the IVA test, so keeping the mirrors in place. I assume, if the mirrors are bolted to the windscreen stanchions, you can forget the doors and still pass.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Inbetwen dealing with something worse than Norberts (customers) I have had a few good moments and a cross one.

Asked a "friend" if he could turn some alloy to remove some marks and allow me to polsih it up.

The alloy

All he had to do was mount it, with the Wet and dry, which I supplied, was to just turn and clean. I wwanted to do it, but he was insistant that he was the only person in the room who knew what he was doing.


I

Maybe not the best. But he left a serries of ridges on the body. It was only my demands that he stoped. He wanted to do a few more turns.

Meaning I had to hand finish it with 600, 800,1000 and 1200 grit paper.
I know it was never going to be a "see you face in it" finish.

More fool me.

Waxed and being left.

 

[rcx132]

Probably part of construction and use, especially if the side mirrors are bolted to the doors.

Lift off sidescreens on a Caterham have to be secured so they can't be lifted off in the IVA test, so keeping the mirrors in place. I assume, if the mirrors are bolted to the windscreen stanchions, you can forget the doors and still pass.

Ah you're right. Doors or bodywork must extended above a certain height above the seat cushions. So removable doors will be for off road use then.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

These two bits of brass came my way this week.

The 40/60 round is one I am used to handling. I have help a lot on their way. Plus I have let a lot go as well.

This is a Navy round and all it needed was a few dings and dents dressed out and a polish.

The base has a lot of information on it. it will now join my collection of rounds oif the same auto cannon.


The smaller case is a British 2pdr from 1917.



Some one has turned it into Trench art, the issue today is there are so many fakes out there. people finding WW1 case rounds and making "trench art".

This one is real, how do I know?
There is.
Name, rank and Number inside the lip. Through The british legion and their connections we have dated to a person. in a British POW centre. due to certain rules we can go further than this. At pressent. If we get permsion to go deeper we will and I will try to get this back home to the family.

When I loked close you could see tooling marks were the maker had marked the case to postion the forming tool. I wish I knew how they did it.

The metal was a joy to polish. It took a shine very well.

The base has come up well, the history of the case is in almost full detail.

Again a RN round. that does not mean it was on a ship. But could be a Navy part ashore defending a port or dock or any inalnd water way kep point.

 

[qwakers]

last of the changes to the trailer finished, the spare wheel mount is now a lot less ghetto!

mount bent up and bolted on.

studding and nuts through to bolt the wheels to.

wheel bolted on showing a nice gap round the tyre

so i can fit a cover without it hitting the body.

 

[GRW]

Removed the bolt-on x-member that runs between the chassis rails on my old Convoy today, cos the mounting plates were rotting away.
Not too surprised to find both sides of the inner chassis rail had tin weevil - the x-member mounting L brackets are a water trap.
So I had to cut out a section on each chassis rail and weld in some new bits.

OK, I'm the first to admit I'll never win any awards for my repairs, but these sections will be covered over when the x-member goes back on (some 50mm Angle will make ideal replacement mounts for the x-member), so I reckon it'll be good enough.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Day at home, so some pottering and stuff.

This torch came my way an age ago. It is the French version of the Ever Ready Space beam. But opersting at 12v not 6v.
Meaning finding a bulb this side of the water is a bit difficult. Car bulbs can be made to fit at a push.

What this should show is new wires, cleaned up metal, repaired switch and the paper work saved.
But it only realy shows the inside.
Oh well.

The rust has been arrested and the paint given a clean and polish. The chrome parts are also polished with a hard wax.



WW2 belt or hand lantern, not a bicycle lamp.

The clip on the back is designed to clip onto a webbing belt.

This one is meant to have a white/clear and green shade. But the ring is stuck solid.

The sad thing is that age has gotten to the plastic lense and no amount of elboe grease will get it perfect.
But it rotates, the green shade and clear shade are no allowing what feeble like the original bulb lets through. Even with a modern one, there is not much differance.

All fixed, clean and working.
All be it from a PSU.

Hand help beam or opium scales.

French made and also know as cheater scales. As the original weights and the pans are set up to favour the owner of the scales.
Buyies beware.

The pans are a differant weight, so te hang level but if you use the set weights in the right pan they will give a diffeant balance point.

The linning had a musky sme;; and so was removed and given a gentle clean and a open air dry.

I have left the weighst as they are, they are stamped in Gramms and are original to the set.

Nice bit of history from about 1860 ish.

 

[Anguz]

what do the bulbs look like for the rayovac?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

what do the bulbs look like for the rayovac?

LHS i a modern 6v standard bulb, easy to find.
RHS is the original, 12v and an odd size.
The manufacture does not even list a modern replacement. I am happy for it to run on a 6v lantern battery, but if I can locate a original bulb I would be pleased.

 

[Anguz]

whats the diameter of the brass on the 12v, and are the locating pins both in the same place

and what are the numbers on it

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

whats the diameter of the brass on the 12v, and are the locating pins both in the same place

and what are the numbers on it

The numers are the manufcatures details and does not match anything in thr Bulb Bible, typical french. Even a manufacture, well the company who own them now have no clue what they mean.

The pins are off set and at differant heights, to allow it to be adjusted in the cap spring. The length also varries, for some reason.

 

[GRW]

Yesterday I repaired the van's x-member to refit the plated chassis rails and got it back on, and started cutting out the rusty sections of the drivers step (which of course ended up being mist of it, even though it was only crunchy in one small bit).

Today I made new sections to reinforce and replace the step floor and part of the back panel, and spent ages drilling plug-weld holes, plug-welding and seam-welding it back together.

The welds aren't much to look at (all awkward angles upside-down under the van, or contorted... well that's my poor excuse anyway ) but it's now nice, strong and solid.

 

[Mick Annick]

View attachment 339556

LHS i a modern 6v standard bulb, easy to find.
RHS is the original, 12v and an odd size.
The manufacture does not even list a modern replacement. I am happy for it to run on a 6v lantern battery, but if I can locate a original bulb I would be pleased.

Ardy

Have a look on here - if any of these are right I’m happy to buy some and get them to you.

Ampoules 12V

Sur cette page vous retrouvez les ampoules en 12V pour voiture, moto, tracteur, scooter et plus.

www.pharos-boutique.fr

 

[GRW]

In the ongoing "Forth Bridge" type of operations needed to (try to) keep an elderly van on the road - yesterday I repaired the Drivers side Step.

OK, I'll not win any prizes for Welding, Fabricating or Presentation (& Welding in awkward positions, lying on your back attempting vertical & inverted welds is bloody hard & a ball-ache for my limited experience and ability) - but the result is all-good steel, plug & seam-welded and bloody strong .
Time for a coat of high-zinc Bilt Hamber paint, with a larrup of Bitumen Paint Topping (Yummy) to keep the Tin Weevil at bay.
(The runs are from brushing on some Scalex Rust Converter over existing metal just as an extra).

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Bit of fun today.

This brass charcoal iron was aquired by me a few weeks ago. I got it for a friend who wanted a "odd and differant door stop".
I have some my self I use for the same thing.

The insdies was balck with soot and the oily residue when it was fired on hot coals.
This picture does not show how much work went in to cleaning it.
But it is now shinny.

The wood handle took the polish and wax very well.

I got these tow small planes. I hoped to be able to restore them for a model making friend.

The simple idea was to restore and at least save one. Even if it meat robbing bits from one or raiding my spare bins

But saddly both blades are shot.
None of my spare blades fit them.

Bot have been fixed, the blade has and edge. But the steel is very soft and will need hardeneing in a carbon rich fire.
That is for another day.

This Volt meter was worth the funds to play with and re-learn how to balance and set up a MCM.

The maker is now a part of Fluke, they were kind enough to send me the setting up PDF.

Cleaned and working. With in 5%.