slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Lagavulin is my favourite, but I don't/can't slash out too often on that.
The Laphroig was a gift from a good friend who knows my preferences. 
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Lagavulin is my favourite, but I don't/can't slash out too often on that.
The Laphroig was a gift from a good friend who knows my preferences. 
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Just because we're "living like a dog in a field" (ie camping) doesn't mean I can't have my coffee in the morning!
You just can't keep a good man down You could end up being very popular on site with votre neaveaux amis
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
votre neaveaux amis ???
Is that French for sexy young wimin's?
No
, it just means your new friends 
. Some people get lucky, others sadly not so much , all a matter of place and timing......
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,962
- Location
- South Yorkshire
This, Café Le Surf.
View attachment 151980
Just because we're "living like a dog in a field" (ie camping
Is that a 3rd gen Surf?
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 12,473
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
Yes! Had it 7 years, brilliant vehicle!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,902
- Location
- Going Away.
Part 1
A few simple repairs on a Record 23 vice.
A abused item.
As I had spent time in the past bringing it back from the dead before I wanted to do that again.
Broken slide end.
No I did not have the missing part. When I restored it originally I used black oxide and linseed oil to preserve it and keep rust at bay. But some one used old engine oil or something like that. So when I tried to braze it the amount of crud what was drawn out made that idea of a repair not worth it.
So using welding rod, I drilled a series of holes and using chemical metal I glued them into place. Then built a frame work up. Soldered firm the grid was made secured. Then trimmed and dressed into shape.
The RHS is half way through the construction.
Filled with chemical metal and a supporting frame it was filled.
I added chopped glass fibre to the mix. I would of used the filler with that added, but I did not have any.
Left to cure and then sanded and painted.
A few simple repairs on a Record 23 vice.
A abused item.
As I had spent time in the past bringing it back from the dead before I wanted to do that again.
Broken slide end.
No I did not have the missing part. When I restored it originally I used black oxide and linseed oil to preserve it and keep rust at bay. But some one used old engine oil or something like that. So when I tried to braze it the amount of crud what was drawn out made that idea of a repair not worth it.
So using welding rod, I drilled a series of holes and using chemical metal I glued them into place. Then built a frame work up. Soldered firm the grid was made secured. Then trimmed and dressed into shape.
The RHS is half way through the construction.
Filled with chemical metal and a supporting frame it was filled.
I added chopped glass fibre to the mix. I would of used the filler with that added, but I did not have any.
Left to cure and then sanded and painted.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,902
- Location
- Going Away.
Part 2.
Same vice.
I had fixed the loose fixed jar by originally heat shrinking a bar onto the body. It was vey tight and the UNC bolts were able to grip the repaired threads in the body.
What I had, you can see my original strap and how loose it was from being levered off. When I repaired that it was very tight and dressed on to the body.
A mess, broken casting support for the jaw, the inserts stripped out and hidden was a broken drill bit or easy out. Plus a whiteness mark from his drilling.
Bloody hideous repair, but it worked. That was my first attempt to mix chemical metal and chopped glass fibre. It set very quickly. So I was left with a lot off sanding back. The jaw was temporary held in place with wax to allow alignment of holes and upper surface.
A new strap had already bean prepared. By simple forge work on a 4mm length off bat heated up and hammer tight onto the body.
Allowed to shrink, but it did not look good.
So it was dressed back and 4 x M6 C.sunk screws drilled and taped into the body.
Plus using a strong 2 pack glue 2 x M8 stainless steel insert fitted into the body.
Here you can see, under the first fill of filler, purely cosmetic for the paint finish, the M6 screws just nipping the strap into place.
The jaw is just in place to allow final fettling.
It looks like it is bent a bit, as the body was resting on a block of wood.
All most done. One last job, when all is dry and hard is to just sink back the Jaw C/sunk holes to take the new style screws.
Same vice.
I had fixed the loose fixed jar by originally heat shrinking a bar onto the body. It was vey tight and the UNC bolts were able to grip the repaired threads in the body.
What I had, you can see my original strap and how loose it was from being levered off. When I repaired that it was very tight and dressed on to the body.
A mess, broken casting support for the jaw, the inserts stripped out and hidden was a broken drill bit or easy out. Plus a whiteness mark from his drilling.
Bloody hideous repair, but it worked. That was my first attempt to mix chemical metal and chopped glass fibre. It set very quickly. So I was left with a lot off sanding back. The jaw was temporary held in place with wax to allow alignment of holes and upper surface.
A new strap had already bean prepared. By simple forge work on a 4mm length off bat heated up and hammer tight onto the body.
Allowed to shrink, but it did not look good.
So it was dressed back and 4 x M6 C.sunk screws drilled and taped into the body.
Plus using a strong 2 pack glue 2 x M8 stainless steel insert fitted into the body.
Here you can see, under the first fill of filler, purely cosmetic for the paint finish, the M6 screws just nipping the strap into place.
The jaw is just in place to allow final fettling.
It looks like it is bent a bit, as the body was resting on a block of wood.
All most done. One last job, when all is dry and hard is to just sink back the Jaw C/sunk holes to take the new style screws.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
^^ You've got more patience than I, mate.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,902
- Location
- Going Away.
^^ You've got more patience than I, mate.
PM inbound.
That set of repairs was before I acquired 2 more vices.
You've more patience than me, but I'm curious how much
I know it's very subjective but I much prefer an old bit of kit to show it's scars, I've never been a fan of old kit with a new coat of paint slapped on top as you never know what horrors lie beneath. please don't think I'm saying your repairs aren't good but there's a certain honesty to the strap you can see rather than the one you can't that is hidden under filler and paint.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,902
- Location
- Going Away.
@wookie
The original repair to the fixed jaw lasted 18 Months of hard use and abuse. Un till an armchair expert thought he could do it better. I quote;
I have seen enough U tube to know how it is done.
He then set about the jaw with drills easy outs and craw bars to take it to bits.
The strap is held in place with the M6 screws to prevent it ever working loose again. What The images do not show is the M8 inserts fixed in place. The glue used is the same stuff my local engine re-conditional/ repair pace use to fix inserts into engine blocks.
They will not be shifting that quickly. They are rated at 1ton.
As to the slide, that part was non load bearing and it led on from a simple braze repair to an alternative method of fixing,
All my working vices are in the bare castings, well not standing the original paint what has not bean worked off.
The person I am repairing the record 23 for has asked for it to be painted and filled, not my choice. I liked the bare finish I had previously restored it to.
See below.
That finish is black oxide and linseed oil, it will keep it rust free.
I know my repairs are good, as I have done similar in the past.
But now you can get glues and inserts what are stronger than the weld repair. Modern filler, some of the new chemical metals can handle a thread being taped into them. I have used 3 pack glues to repair equipment on Submarines.
As to the finish each to their own.
That pipe vice was given to me in that state. Unusable.
A bit of time and work I end up with this.
A fully working, clean and present to look at and use.
Trust me, it doesn't look like now.
The original repair to the fixed jaw lasted 18 Months of hard use and abuse. Un till an armchair expert thought he could do it better. I quote;
I have seen enough U tube to know how it is done.
He then set about the jaw with drills easy outs and craw bars to take it to bits.
The strap is held in place with the M6 screws to prevent it ever working loose again. What The images do not show is the M8 inserts fixed in place. The glue used is the same stuff my local engine re-conditional/ repair pace use to fix inserts into engine blocks.
They will not be shifting that quickly. They are rated at 1ton.
As to the slide, that part was non load bearing and it led on from a simple braze repair to an alternative method of fixing,
All my working vices are in the bare castings, well not standing the original paint what has not bean worked off.
The person I am repairing the record 23 for has asked for it to be painted and filled, not my choice. I liked the bare finish I had previously restored it to.
See below.
That finish is black oxide and linseed oil, it will keep it rust free.
I know my repairs are good, as I have done similar in the past.
But now you can get glues and inserts what are stronger than the weld repair. Modern filler, some of the new chemical metals can handle a thread being taped into them. I have used 3 pack glues to repair equipment on Submarines.
As to the finish each to their own.
That pipe vice was given to me in that state. Unusable.
A bit of time and work I end up with this.
A fully working, clean and present to look at and use.
Trust me, it doesn't look like now.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,902
- Location
- Going Away.
@Seadog
The holes when I repaired originally, it could take the UNC C/sunks bolts, but only by 3 threads. The strap I added gave a few more turns.
This time the holes I had were 13 mm and 15mm respectively. One had a snapped drill or easy out buried deep inside.
Hence why I went down the route of M8 glued inserts.
Like you, I have seen 23 with that part of the fixed jaw broken as you say it does not take much to fix. I went over board as I had time and wanted to experiment.
The holes when I repaired originally, it could take the UNC C/sunks bolts, but only by 3 threads. The strap I added gave a few more turns.
This time the holes I had were 13 mm and 15mm respectively. One had a snapped drill or easy out buried deep inside.
Hence why I went down the route of M8 glued inserts.
Like you, I have seen 23 with that part of the fixed jaw broken as you say it does not take much to fix. I went over board as I had time and wanted to experiment.
wyn
Member
- Messages
- 3,683
- Location
- Cardiff
Yes, it's a sort of laminated steel hook that goes over a bar.
Thanks for the detailed reply, keep up the posts showing how you repair stuff it's interesting.
I have to agree with you regarding that vice, I much prefer the bare finish too.
