steviec_lj
Rust Welding Professional
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- 2,806
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- Barnetby, N.Lincs
Time is moneyI'm just thinking what the farmers around here would try, they'd have a round bale on each spike and two more balanced on top for good measure
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- 29,540
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- Scottish Highlands
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
A work in progress, imagine it with a pretty coloured pot plant in the 'seat'. 
I might fix a support for the pot underneath yet. The bottom shoes have to be ground so it sits level/balanced. Thanks to @The_Yellow_Ardvark for the idea in a thread a while back 
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I might fix a support for the pot underneath yet. The bottom shoes have to be ground so it sits level/balanced. Thanks to @The_Yellow_Ardvark for the idea in a thread a while back .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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gordon stephenson
Member
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- 7,462
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- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
I have made lots of things with horseshoes but never a plant holding chair, Great idea. Just got a new supply of shoes today, Farrier came to my daughters place at tea time and dropped off the shoes he had removed today, Cant beat free material,
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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- 2,727
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- Kendal, Cumbria
Had anyone got a good guide to re handling tools like hammers, I never seem to get it right and they come loose after a while.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,012
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
No video clip just a few observations.
Shape the shaft initially using a coarse flap wheel on the angle grinder , don't go silly taking all the material off at one place , it just needs a gentle kissing all round the shape of the shaft end . Make it so it is an interference fit in the head so it shows shiny rub marks where it fits the hole side walls & that the head sits square & well on the shaft . The rub marks should start at the end of the shaft and as you remove more wood start to show slightly further back with every new adjustment of removing a tiny bit of wood . Takes about 15 min max . Remember to keep the axis of the shaft true to the hammer head axis . There's nowt worse than having fitted a shaft to find that when the shaped shaft lies naturally in your hand to allow a maximum striking force the head of the hammer is twisted to one side thus giving glancing blows rather than square on the head hits.
A medium ( 2nd cut ) metal file is good to use towards the final fittings so that you don't take off to much at a time..
Cut a simple thin " V" inn the head of the shaft using a hack saw or a fine cut wood saw so it runs along the head not across the head , ensure that it does not go below the metal head of the hammer when the head is in place make it a few mm longer than needed .
Cut long thin hard wood feather wedge to fit the slot , then cut a bit off the bottom so that when driven home in the slot ( after you've fitted the head ) it will have a 20 thou clearance at the pointy end of the wedge , this will allow the wedge to ever so slightly spread the walls of the cut "V" when the hammer is assembled but not open the split to run further down the hammer shaft .
Smear the shaft that's going to go in the hammer head & put a smidgeon in the hole in the head with some Araldite resin .. it helps slip it in the head and also fills up any small depressions etc in the head or on the shaft top
Assemble the head & shaft . Give the shaft end a tap with a block of wood to fully seat it in the head. Put a smear of Araldite on the wooden feather wedge and drive it home but don't bray it to break it .
Cut the stubby end of the wedge off , file it smooth and then at 45 degrees insert a steel serrated hammer feather in the end of the shaft ( two evenly spaced if it is a big hammer hedge) . Wipe any excess resin off the shaft using some paraffin or WD 40 on a rag .
Stand the hammer heel down for 24 hrs till the resin has drained in to any gaps and fully hardened.
One thing you can do to get practice is is set a side a couple of wet day traing hours afte cutting cut some half a dozen soft wood 14 inch long square sticks just a bit bigger than the hole in the hammer head and pay at making either end fit the hammer head , using the tips I've given you .
Doing all the fitting in one session is important, for you to learn where you went wrong and discover ways to not repeat the errors.
By the time you've done the sixth shaft at the end of the 2 to 3 hours session you'll have made 12 fits & should be getting competetnant at it .
Shape the shaft initially using a coarse flap wheel on the angle grinder , don't go silly taking all the material off at one place , it just needs a gentle kissing all round the shape of the shaft end . Make it so it is an interference fit in the head so it shows shiny rub marks where it fits the hole side walls & that the head sits square & well on the shaft . The rub marks should start at the end of the shaft and as you remove more wood start to show slightly further back with every new adjustment of removing a tiny bit of wood . Takes about 15 min max . Remember to keep the axis of the shaft true to the hammer head axis . There's nowt worse than having fitted a shaft to find that when the shaped shaft lies naturally in your hand to allow a maximum striking force the head of the hammer is twisted to one side thus giving glancing blows rather than square on the head hits.
A medium ( 2nd cut ) metal file is good to use towards the final fittings so that you don't take off to much at a time..
Cut a simple thin " V" inn the head of the shaft using a hack saw or a fine cut wood saw so it runs along the head not across the head , ensure that it does not go below the metal head of the hammer when the head is in place make it a few mm longer than needed .
Cut long thin hard wood feather wedge to fit the slot , then cut a bit off the bottom so that when driven home in the slot ( after you've fitted the head ) it will have a 20 thou clearance at the pointy end of the wedge , this will allow the wedge to ever so slightly spread the walls of the cut "V" when the hammer is assembled but not open the split to run further down the hammer shaft .
Smear the shaft that's going to go in the hammer head & put a smidgeon in the hole in the head with some Araldite resin .. it helps slip it in the head and also fills up any small depressions etc in the head or on the shaft top
Assemble the head & shaft . Give the shaft end a tap with a block of wood to fully seat it in the head. Put a smear of Araldite on the wooden feather wedge and drive it home but don't bray it to break it .
Cut the stubby end of the wedge off , file it smooth and then at 45 degrees insert a steel serrated hammer feather in the end of the shaft ( two evenly spaced if it is a big hammer hedge) . Wipe any excess resin off the shaft using some paraffin or WD 40 on a rag .
Stand the hammer heel down for 24 hrs till the resin has drained in to any gaps and fully hardened.
One thing you can do to get practice is is set a side a couple of wet day traing hours afte cutting cut some half a dozen soft wood 14 inch long square sticks just a bit bigger than the hole in the hammer head and pay at making either end fit the hammer head , using the tips I've given you .
Doing all the fitting in one session is important, for you to learn where you went wrong and discover ways to not repeat the errors.
By the time you've done the sixth shaft at the end of the 2 to 3 hours session you'll have made 12 fits & should be getting competetnant at it .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,012
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Another axe shaft, though this is stil under development, but it's getting close. I chopped of some more of the bottom of the shaft, it was too fat.
It looks good but for comparison ,what does an original factory made axe & shaft look like ?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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no exactly made, but soldered a DC power meter, some cable, a 12v heater and some crocodile clips to see how much the capacity of my old car batteries is. the power meter is one of these off ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142869950811
the heater was just to give a load which ended up being just over 10 amps. My 063 size car batteries now have a capacity of approx 10Ah, but new batteries should be approx 45Ah. think I'll have to overcharge them to see if that helps with the capacity.
when used with a battery tester below, it would indicate that they are perfectly fine
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142869950811
the heater was just to give a load which ended up being just over 10 amps. My 063 size car batteries now have a capacity of approx 10Ah, but new batteries should be approx 45Ah. think I'll have to overcharge them to see if that helps with the capacity.
when used with a battery tester below, it would indicate that they are perfectly fine
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Thats a heck of a load value the unit can handle ..................adjusted electronically no doubt.
Do you have access to one of the £15 or so " de-sulphating your car battery devices " they do some times work if it is just heavily sulphated but not fully discharged ( below 8 volts )
A fully charged lead acid battery in good condition has six lead acid cells at 2.2 volts per cell giving you 13.2 volts when it is fully charged .
Do you have access to one of the £15 or so " de-sulphating your car battery devices " they do some times work if it is just heavily sulphated but not fully discharged ( below 8 volts )
A fully charged lead acid battery in good condition has six lead acid cells at 2.2 volts per cell giving you 13.2 volts when it is fully charged .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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One small "Bodge" job to make a tool.
The design is dot and punch.
But due to the damage, it has bean flattened, then re-shaped, I needed to make a punch.
Research told me the punch would be "Home Made" and used for the design.
So I made one.
Robed a Fire extinguisher for a hard bit of brass and dressed it with a file to suit the dots.
The tip is not round by any stretch of the imagination, but it is blunt.
There, 75% of the Dot repair done.
I never clean something like this, but mark the repair in wax crayon, this case black. Dot the design in. The polish, the dirt and the wax will fill the new marks and help hide them.
Never polish something with a powered mop, the heat will distort the fragile metal.
The design is dot and punch.
But due to the damage, it has bean flattened, then re-shaped, I needed to make a punch.
Research told me the punch would be "Home Made" and used for the design.
So I made one.
Robed a Fire extinguisher for a hard bit of brass and dressed it with a file to suit the dots.
The tip is not round by any stretch of the imagination, but it is blunt.
There, 75% of the Dot repair done.
I never clean something like this, but mark the repair in wax crayon, this case black. Dot the design in. The polish, the dirt and the wax will fill the new marks and help hide them.
Never polish something with a powered mop, the heat will distort the fragile metal.
That's because you need a tester that puts a proper load on the battery such as the old Frankenstein type like this...
Ten seconds on a good battery and the shunt wire is glowing cherry red, If the battery can cope with that then it's a good un. I tried my 400amp clamp meter on our tester once but it was off the scale so who knows what current they draw. Planning on getting a 1000amp clamp meter so will have another go
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- 5,736
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- Ireland
A good trick for replacing handles on things like files and chisels is to lightly push the tang into the centre of the handle ( just enough so it doesn't fall out), then if you are right handed, you grasp the handle firmly in your left hand and hit the end of the handle with a hammer a few times until the tool moves into the handle the required distance all by itself. It tends to hold much better this way than any other method I know of. I don't know how it works but it does. Something to do with physics I think. I gave up physics at school to do pottery, so what do I know.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I kept removing material and slimming the handle, feels better in the hand now:
I alway trim the shafts on my tools to suit my grip and style of use.
