What are they ?
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Brad93
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Dr.Al
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The jig I made yesterday for planing / thicknessing (in post #11016 in this thread) runs really nicely on bits of 3030 t-slot extrusion. Running on the extrusion limits the height of the material being "planed" to 30 mm. The original plan had been that if I wanted to "plane" anything thicker, I'd find something taller to run it on (maybe just two long lengths of the extrusion, one on top of the other), but it occurred to me this evening that I could use some short and otherwise largely useless offcuts of the extrusion to make a removable height extender.
They attach on each end with a single M5 cap screw (so can be quickly removed for < 30 mm material and quickly fitted for ≥ 30 mm material) and have UHMW tape on the top and inside surface, just like the main body has.
The bit of bar that forms the continuation of the fence is made from the offcut produced by turning the 40 × 40 × 4 mm equal angle into 40 × 20 × 4 mm unequal angle, so the whole project (except screws and washers) was made from stuff that was destined for the bin!
Lots of rough finishes as everything was cut to size on the bandsaw and I couldn't be bothered to clean it all up in the mill. I haven't got any wood thicker than 30 mm at the moment, so I haven't tried it out, but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Not obvious in those photos, but I also replaced four of the 8 mm screw holding the (4 mm thick) angle bits together with some 10 mm screws. They protrude ever so slightly into the track that the router runs on and are conveniently in the right place such that the router hits them and stops sliding along the track just before the cutter hits the extrusion.
They attach on each end with a single M5 cap screw (so can be quickly removed for < 30 mm material and quickly fitted for ≥ 30 mm material) and have UHMW tape on the top and inside surface, just like the main body has.
The bit of bar that forms the continuation of the fence is made from the offcut produced by turning the 40 × 40 × 4 mm equal angle into 40 × 20 × 4 mm unequal angle, so the whole project (except screws and washers) was made from stuff that was destined for the bin!
Lots of rough finishes as everything was cut to size on the bandsaw and I couldn't be bothered to clean it all up in the mill. I haven't got any wood thicker than 30 mm at the moment, so I haven't tried it out, but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Not obvious in those photos, but I also replaced four of the 8 mm screw holding the (4 mm thick) angle bits together with some 10 mm screws. They protrude ever so slightly into the track that the router runs on and are conveniently in the right place such that the router hits them and stops sliding along the track just before the cutter hits the extrusion.
Windy Miller
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Nice!
I had to Google these - never seen them before.
Do you do a lot of pipe welding Brad? I can see that they’d also be very handy for general fab work.
Brad93
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The odd bit here and there, I used to do more pipe fabrication when I was at the last firm.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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On Friday, just gone I met @Dr.Al and left with this.
A Blacksmiths odd leg vice.
After some pre work before it arrived we worked out how to have a MIS session at my place. A big change. not just to Covid-19, but a big leaning on H&S.
The lower pivot point. 3 nuts and seized bolt. RHS you can see the top mount what was also jammed.
New H&S meant I had to do this, the MIS member was allowed to watch and be on fire watch.
This showed him that heat will free a lot up.
The second member saw the middle nut having the same treatment.
The image also gives a idea how rusty the vice was.
The moving leg and jaw. This is after a clean up with power tools.
The metal was badly pitted, but in solid condition. The age related damaged was left, but burs and sharp edges removed.
By files and stones.
The oil and crud of time on the thread and threaded tube did not shift with any "over the counter" products. Petrol may off shifted it. But this method had it gone. This was used to show that old tools and the correct use can produce results.
The Blackening.
2 methods.
Nut, bolt and tube top left hand was heated and oil dipped. Groundnut oil was used and gave good results.
The rest was a kit, this is the first failure I had with it. With in 10 minutes the brown stain appeared, it rubbed off with a cloth. But the blackening cam with it.
So it was redone, same methods, different results.
Today, the same 2 members came back and we carried on.
The last job on Saturday was the hand paint the main parts with a clear metal sealer.
This simple picture contains a lot of information.
You can see 2 leather washers on the handle. They were cut out with a bit and brace and a washer cuter.
A simple sounding job, but took a bit of time. I let the 2 members try to work out how to use the tool.
Learn by doing.
The top mount is fitted. Using the original metal work. But as I am currently missing a spring. The mount would rattle around and be useless. Until a spring can be sourced.
So 2 sliding wedges were cut from Redwood, waxed up and hammered into place.
During the build a mix of oil and wax was applied to the metal. Buffed up and ensuring all the metal is covered.
Finished.
The blackened parts don't show up well in the image, but there is a big difference.
The wax and oil finish gives a nice "aged" look to the metal.
A Blacksmiths odd leg vice.
After some pre work before it arrived we worked out how to have a MIS session at my place. A big change. not just to Covid-19, but a big leaning on H&S.
The lower pivot point. 3 nuts and seized bolt. RHS you can see the top mount what was also jammed.
New H&S meant I had to do this, the MIS member was allowed to watch and be on fire watch.
This showed him that heat will free a lot up.
The second member saw the middle nut having the same treatment.
The image also gives a idea how rusty the vice was.
The moving leg and jaw. This is after a clean up with power tools.
The metal was badly pitted, but in solid condition. The age related damaged was left, but burs and sharp edges removed.
By files and stones.
The oil and crud of time on the thread and threaded tube did not shift with any "over the counter" products. Petrol may off shifted it. But this method had it gone. This was used to show that old tools and the correct use can produce results.
The Blackening.
2 methods.
Nut, bolt and tube top left hand was heated and oil dipped. Groundnut oil was used and gave good results.
The rest was a kit, this is the first failure I had with it. With in 10 minutes the brown stain appeared, it rubbed off with a cloth. But the blackening cam with it.
So it was redone, same methods, different results.
Today, the same 2 members came back and we carried on.
The last job on Saturday was the hand paint the main parts with a clear metal sealer.
This simple picture contains a lot of information.
You can see 2 leather washers on the handle. They were cut out with a bit and brace and a washer cuter.
A simple sounding job, but took a bit of time. I let the 2 members try to work out how to use the tool.
Learn by doing.
The top mount is fitted. Using the original metal work. But as I am currently missing a spring. The mount would rattle around and be useless. Until a spring can be sourced.
So 2 sliding wedges were cut from Redwood, waxed up and hammered into place.
During the build a mix of oil and wax was applied to the metal. Buffed up and ensuring all the metal is covered.
Finished.
The blackened parts don't show up well in the image, but there is a big difference.
The wax and oil finish gives a nice "aged" look to the metal.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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@Dr.Al Vice part 2
This shows one of the top mount wedges, as removed.
The rust is bad, the burrs on both ends, will not allow an easy rebuild.
Same item.
De-rusted. A mix of power tools and files.
We could of made a new items, after all it is just bar steel. But this is original and the fun of restoring it over rode the idea to replace.
This blackened and waxed.
Anotrher item from the good Dr.Al. I got the speed controller working, a dry joint.
From a modern(ish) drill to the old age of drills.
Bit and brace with a washer cutter.
The results.
Just a pretty red thing.
This shows one of the top mount wedges, as removed.
The rust is bad, the burrs on both ends, will not allow an easy rebuild.
Same item.
De-rusted. A mix of power tools and files.
We could of made a new items, after all it is just bar steel. But this is original and the fun of restoring it over rode the idea to replace.
This blackened and waxed.
Anotrher item from the good Dr.Al. I got the speed controller working, a dry joint.
From a modern(ish) drill to the old age of drills.
Bit and brace with a washer cutter.
The results.
Just a pretty red thing.
Help, I can't find it on google or YT, do you mind elaborating on this?
Brad93
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Windy Miller
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That’s the exact same video that I watched! Do you find them handy for general fabrication, or only for pipe work?
Olderisbetter
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Not metal related unless you count derusting the screws and wing nuts but an old barley twist table on a skip badly painted and headed home with me took it back to wood then painted it with Bedec multi surface paint, grey with some white ghosted over to age it.
slim_boy_fat
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I claim my special prize for spotting your deliberate error in that first pic.....
slim_boy_fat
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Today I made a start on modifying an old towing eye for a neighbour.
He has a friend who is getting quite bad with Parkinson's disease and this is to be a pin so that he can easily fit /remove one of these to the drawbar of an old ride-on mower which has been sitting abandoned in a shed for a couple of years when he bought a new replacement.
I'm waiting for final sizes before any further turning - then I'll cut off the lower end excess, to leave only a short 'stub', through which I'll drill a hole for a linch-pin. All to make it easier for the chap to cope with and ameliorate the shake(s) he experiences.
As an aside, my neighbour was there today [some days the old boy isn't up to doing much of anything] and got the old mower running - I'll get the full story tomorrow.
The story so far [I don't know what this 'eye' is made of, but it finishes very nicely, even taking the smaller cuts of the ML7
- anyone know??]
The perspective in pic #1 makes it look huge
, but iirc it came from a Peugeot of some model.
He has a friend who is getting quite bad with Parkinson's disease and this is to be a pin so that he can easily fit /remove one of these to the drawbar of an old ride-on mower which has been sitting abandoned in a shed for a couple of years when he bought a new replacement.
I'm waiting for final sizes before any further turning - then I'll cut off the lower end excess, to leave only a short 'stub', through which I'll drill a hole for a linch-pin. All to make it easier for the chap to cope with and ameliorate the shake(s) he experiences.
As an aside, my neighbour was there today [some days the old boy isn't up to doing much of anything
] and got the old mower running - I'll get the full story tomorrow.The story so far [I don't know what this 'eye' is made of, but it finishes very nicely, even taking the smaller cuts of the ML7
- anyone know??] The perspective in pic #1 makes it look huge
, but iirc it came from a Peugeot of some model.
slim_boy_fat
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Some of you may remember my posts about my Babyliss for Men V1 hair cutter and my reported emails with the Company trying to establish what the rechargeable cell inside it was, so that I could either buy a replacement from them or source one elsewhere.
Having drawn a complete blank there, yesterday I thought 'nothing ventured, nothing gained' and decided to dis-assemble it [a bit like Wall.E]
Expecting it to be full of tiny screws, springs & pingfeckits I was pleasantly surprised to find that 4 small screws allowed access to this.....
Google + eBay found a direct replacement for less than £4 delivered, so with a bit of soldering [not my forte, sadly] I'll be good to go, after the initial 16 hours initial charge. With lockdown for me now 14 weeks in, I'll be glad to feel tidy again
Having drawn a complete blank there, yesterday I thought 'nothing ventured, nothing gained' and decided to dis-assemble it [a bit like Wall.E
]Expecting it to be full of tiny screws, springs & pingfeckits I was pleasantly surprised to find that 4 small screws allowed access to this.....
Google + eBay found a direct replacement for less than £4 delivered, so with a bit of soldering [not my forte, sadly] I'll be good to go, after the initial 16 hours initial charge. With lockdown for me now 14 weeks in, I'll be glad to feel tidy again
cianh91
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It’s 4” t&g with a fencing paint finish
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I claim my special prize for spotting your deliberate error in that first pic.....
Yes you get to spend 2 weeks with Norbert in his caravan.
