eLuSiVeMiTe
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Probably stuffed something up. Exhausted. Youngest had me up all night
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Dr.Al
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Balls!
Today (and yesterday) I made almost all of these:
The one in the top-left is an off-the-shelf R8 arbor for a boring head. I had the devil's own job getting the arbor off, so I milled a couple of flats (with a carbide end mill as it was tough stuff) on it to make it easier next time. The rest (apart from the screws & dowel pins) were home-made. Made out of 50 mm square EN1A, 50 mm round EN1A, 16 mm square EN1A, 10 mm round EN1A, 32 mm round brass and 50.8 mm round stainless of some sort.
Joined together, they look like this:
The boring bar's adjuster screw has a hole of sorts on each end, so, having put the new tool in a tool holder, I used that with a couple of centres to get it at the right height:
Then it was a case of giving it a go:
It's not perfect but not bad for a first go.
This has been on my project list for about 10 years. About 5 years ago I decided to just buy one and I bought one that was designed for Myfords. It didn't work very well with small diameters as you had to have a big stick-out from the chuck or the chuck would hit the body, so I filed it away with the idea that I'd think about it some other time. Yesterday I needed a ball for a repair job and decided to just get on with it and make the tool. The design was very much a case of "make it up as you go out of whatever you've got", so I'm sure there are imperfections in the design, but it seems to work and that's good enough for me.
Today (and yesterday) I made almost all of these:
The one in the top-left is an off-the-shelf R8 arbor for a boring head. I had the devil's own job getting the arbor off, so I milled a couple of flats (with a carbide end mill as it was tough stuff) on it to make it easier next time. The rest (apart from the screws & dowel pins) were home-made. Made out of 50 mm square EN1A, 50 mm round EN1A, 16 mm square EN1A, 10 mm round EN1A, 32 mm round brass and 50.8 mm round stainless of some sort.
Joined together, they look like this:
The boring bar's adjuster screw has a hole of sorts on each end, so, having put the new tool in a tool holder, I used that with a couple of centres to get it at the right height:
Then it was a case of giving it a go:
It's not perfect but not bad for a first go.
This has been on my project list for about 10 years. About 5 years ago I decided to just buy one and I bought one that was designed for Myfords. It didn't work very well with small diameters as you had to have a big stick-out from the chuck or the chuck would hit the body, so I filed it away with the idea that I'd think about it some other time. Yesterday I needed a ball for a repair job and decided to just get on with it and make the tool. The design was very much a case of "make it up as you go out of whatever you've got", so I'm sure there are imperfections in the design, but it seems to work and that's good enough for me.
I know what you mean about the Myford fitting one. I used mine for the first time making my 1/4" BSW dome head screws and I was surprised at how inappropriate the design was. It's a good idea but could have been done much better so you can work closer to the chuck. When you said 'filed it away', I thought you meant you'd filed bits of the original to make it fit better
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Me too, use my size A copper/hide all the time, I've been meaning to make myself a deadblow equivalent for ages, might finally get around to it soon.
mtt.tr
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Lead hammers are the absolute best.
James1979
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Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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We made a mould at work for making 4kg-ish hammers, we go through around 20 a year for both production and engineering depts. Used to cast lead on site but eventually subbed it all out as it was easier than bringing everything up to scratch from Parm's HSE point of view
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Something my lad drew up and printed at my instigation. I decided I now want photocells at two heights on my brick pillars but only have one 20mm flexible conduit running to the control box. A Y piece, printed as a standing up Y, no supports, in Ziro PLA. It'll all be buried anyway in "lime" mortar when I decide what I'm doing on that score!
Brad93
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dan.taylor.1
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Looks spot on mate. Cheers
Kram
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A nut.
Threading on this took far too long. Anyone know a reference for internal thread straight infeed distances? I was expecting 0.7-1mm but ended up at 1.4mm, 2.96mm on the diameter dials. The test thread worked, would have stopped far too early without it!
Threading on this took far too long. Anyone know a reference for internal thread straight infeed distances? I was expecting 0.7-1mm but ended up at 1.4mm, 2.96mm on the diameter dials. The test thread worked, would have stopped far too early without it!
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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Not got a reference, but a bit of pythagoras gets you 1.3mm as the depth on a 1.5 pitch 60° thread.
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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And if you go in at 30° it'll be 1.5mm, as a 60° angle triangle is equilateral.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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For manual lathes with a compound this makes the most sense... Easiest to calculate, and easiest to cut as well. I've had my compound set at 30 degrees permanently since I set it up lol
