- Thread starter Dr.Al
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daedalusminos
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It's to take up the slack in unloaded filament of the MMU2S - it's still attached
JMS1972
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Nice. You can get little breakout boards with USB connectors on them. Might be easier to mount?One of the main reasons I wanted a 3D printer was to print boxes for various little electronics projects. Last night I finally used the printer for that purpose! I really didn't think it would work as the CAD model was knocked up in about an hour before bedtime so that I could leave the printer going overnight. There are definitely things that could be improved but I'm happy with it for a first attempt:
View attachment 330207
The pockets in the base (left) are the right shape for a couple of off-the-shelf PCBs (a 24 V to 5 V DC/DC converter and a USB relay board); the sticky-up bits in the lid hold the PCBs in place so I don't have to bother with screws and such like to keep the PCBs in place. I'm honestly quite gobsmacked that I got the measurements of the clamping pieces right first time:
View attachment 330209
I couldn't think of a sensible way to hold the loose USB connectors on the left: although they're clamped by the lid, they can still move in and out, so (after trimming the unwanted pins and soldering wires on) I glued them to the base with superglue. Hopefully that will work: it seems okay so far.
View attachment 330210
It goes here, on the side of the printer (attached to the 3030 extrusion with a couple of t-nuts):
View attachment 330211
Power comes from the printer power supply and the rear USB port is connected to the raspberry pi. The front USB ports are for lights, which can be turned on and off in software (using the USB relay board). That means that if I'm out of an evening and what to check up on the printer, I can connect remotely, turn the lights on and view the feed from the cameras. I can then turn the lights back off.
At the moment the only way to control the lights is by logging in to the command line with JuiceSSH (ssh for android) and typing in commands. Next job is to add a button to the octopi web page.
View attachment 330212
For now though, it works (although the eagle-eyed among you will have spotted that when I took this photo I'd forgotten to plug the USB cable in to the back - it took me longer than it should have to work out why it wasn't working)
Your not the only one lol. It will come as no surprise that I still don't understand after the explanations..
But I would like the STL link.
mtt.tr
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Being lodged away from home for the next two weeks I intend to carry on my guitar practice.
So I made up a quick and dirty op-amp headphone amp. Of course I had no perf board so went deadbug style, which is far harder to make look acceptable than I had imagined, I have huge respect for the really tidy jobs people do.
Anyhow I 3d printed a case and melted the copper into the pla
So I made up a quick and dirty op-amp headphone amp. Of course I had no perf board so went deadbug style, which is far harder to make look acceptable than I had imagined, I have huge respect for the really tidy jobs people do.
Anyhow I 3d printed a case and melted the copper into the pla
Dev
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It’s this, when the colour switcher unloads filament it’s only back to the MMU unit - so the distance between the print head and the MMU. This creates a bit of slack which the reel rolling back down the hill takes up.
link to the model: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/10370-gravity-spoolholder-for-mmu2s
Heres a video of what I’m talking about (skip forward to 2:00)
The OEM solution is a buffer cassette - the black thing you can see being the printer in the video - which works fine but takes up space.
Have you got a link to that file ?
I really need one of those
Onoff
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& at that price will you ever?
Dr.Al
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Yes, it probably would have been, good point. Having said that, I already had the USB connectors so that was a nice cheap solution.
It was based on this one: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/14474
However, after printing it I realised that it could only do radii up to 40 mm and wanted to go a bit larger so I redesigned it to cope with radii up to 70 mm and also added the equation so I don't have to remember anything. I haven't published my version yet, but I'll try to do so in a day or two and will post the link here.
Not even looked the price...lol I don't have a prusa.
Dr.Al
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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A little hanging bracket to mount 3 Chinesium V/A/Hz meters on and dangle in a control panel etc for testing purposes on site. I just scribbled on a post it, gave to No.1 son and went to bed. Done when I got up:
slim_boy_fat
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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A 4 way dangly bracket for the Chinesium V/A/Hz meters. This for when I venture back into the garage to carry on with the rotary phase converter. Cold stopped play a while back!
The green will be for the incoming 230V mains. The RYB for the 3 phase output.
If it all works I'll case it up and make a pretty bezel for them.
The green will be for the incoming 230V mains. The RYB for the 3 phase output.
If it all works I'll case it up and make a pretty bezel for them.
