Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[DAPPH]

I have had a closer look after another test print came unstuck (deliberate adhesion test). The nozzle was covered in baked ASA filament and what I think is happening is to do with ASA / ABS only. As a print loses adhesion and warps, those areas are higher than the nozzle. When the nozzle meets those areas, the material is melted by the nozzle and sticks to it before being deposited back onto the print. At least I think so. It doesn't make sense that the print in question didn't warp yet was covered in rubbish though.

I'd say it's a bit of both as well as the nozzle catching the un laid filament run it not only catches & sometimes melt it it often drags the left & right edge of the first few layers up like Turkish slipper & fills the torn up areas with globs of cooling the prints is torn off the bed


Putting a skirt around the print when you design & digitalize the print helps to prevent this as well .
..

Have you done a proper nozzle clean with an acupuncture pin up the nozzle hole after you have used a brass brush to remove any nozzle crud off a hot nozzle . Do a melt run test after cleaning the nozzle to ensure you get a good 3 inches of free flowing melt . Occasionally using the acupuncture pin , will loosen some carbonised crud & dust inside the nozzle bore that clogs the jet a bit .
I've found over time that once I've run the heater through two cycles prior to printing to get things nice and hot for a good print I need to raise the z axis to max and use a make up pad ( 1,200 for £6 eBay Oct 2021 ) to remove any globs of melt that have run out freely . Having my the printer bedplate raised to eye level means I can easily see if I've managed to get everything nice & clean and see how things are printing I don't have to look down and guess if things are running well . When you get proficient with your printer you'll be able to wipe the nozzle whilst nozzle is raised & the x axis is being traversed immediately before the actual pre print run print starts depositing the nozzle any more extrusion .

 

[indy4x]

Fill ya boots ......I'd hate to be a cell in his brain...you'd never get a minutes piece

Series 2 Land Rover & Hyper 9 Direct to LT230 Build...

www.diyelectriccar.com

Is the guy doing this from Neath? Just curious as a few years ago I bought a bench from a guy through this forum, he had an early LR that had passed through his family from his Grandad, Dad and then him. IIRC it had the 300TDI in it back then

 

[Dr.Al]

The printer's been busy for a few days and has made this lot:

I've had it for a month (and printed 1.6 km of filament!) now and already I'm planning major surgery <gulp>. In my defence, this was always part of the plan, I just didn't think I'd do it quite so soon. Bottom left is a new processor board case with extra room for a (full size) raspberry pi in the bottom. The board that's already fitted is a 24 V to 5 V DC/DC converter to power the pi. Most of the rest of the bits are for mounting two cameras: the raspberry pi one and a USB webcam.

Wish me luck...

 

[pawsnizzy]

Someone requested yellow! Enclosure for a 1602 LCD for a current project

 

[Dr.Al]

The printer's been busy for a few days and has made this lot:

View attachment 329308

I've had it for a month (and printed 1.6 km of filament!) now and already I'm planning major surgery <gulp>. In my defence, this was always part of the plan, I just didn't think I'd do it quite so soon. Bottom left is a new processor board case with extra room for a (full size) raspberry pi in the bottom. The board that's already fitted is a 24 V to 5 V DC/DC converter to power the pi. Most of the rest of the bits are for mounting two cameras: the raspberry pi one and a USB webcam.

Wish me luck...

All wired up and past self-test, so that's a start (I haven't checked the raspberry pi is working/communicating yet, I'll do that after the XYZ calibration is complete).

Before:

After:

The new case is MUCH better designed than the old one: so much easier to get the cables routed neatly.

 

[Dr.Al]

All wired up and past self-test, so that's a start (I haven't checked the raspberry pi is working/communicating yet, I'll do that after the XYZ calibration is complete).

Before:

View attachment 329337

After:

View attachment 329338

The new case is MUCH better designed than the old one: so much easier to get the cables routed neatly.

Looking promising:

The other camera's working too, it just doesn't appear on the octoprint GUI - you have to go to http://octopi/webcam2/?action=stream to see it:

I think I might need to work on the placement of that camera!

 

[AndersK]

While you have it fresh in mind, how much excess cable is it for the LCD?
I'm working on my enclosure and I'm gonna move the LCD outside of it but not sure if I need to start looking for connectors and cable or if can still use the original.

Extra like for the track saw, when my SP6000 dies it's gonna be the battery version

 

[Dr.Al]

While you have it fresh in mind, how much excess cable is it for the LCD?
I'm working on my enclosure and I'm gonna move the LCD outside of it but not sure if I need to start looking for connectors and cable or if can still use the original.

The cables are fairly optimal in length to be honest. However, if you're building an enclosure, you don't necessarily need the cable to follow the path underneath the extrusion: it would be quite easy to make it go straight out to the inside face of the enclosure and then there would be plenty of length for it to reach the front of the enclosure I imagine.

Extra like for the track saw, when my SP6000 dies it's gonna be the battery version

Yeah, the battery tracksaw is an awesome tool. If you want the waste side jigs for the SP6000, I think it uses a 2.2 mm blade and the files are here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/119376-track-saw-waste-side-kerf-jigs/files (note the comments about nozzle size though)

 

[Dr.Al]

Looking promising:

View attachment 329341

View attachment 329342

The other camera's working too, it just doesn't appear on the octoprint GUI - you have to go to http://octopi/webcam2/?action=stream to see it:

View attachment 329343

I think I might need to work on the placement of that camera!

I figured out how to get both cameras onto the octoprint gui: it's looking a bit better now:

 

[Dr.Al]

I'm loving the live-updating gcode viewer:

 

[Mr Fro]

I bashed out a prototype tool holder & post for the lathe:

Just needs a couple of tweaks then it'll be turned in to metal.

 

[tflnemesis]

This is what I am printing atm.

Its a one off that I will literally use 4 times for what its desgned for.

A little background, I work as a ite manager at a school and last week I was handed 4 boxes and asked to assmble the contents, 4 mobile netball posts,
Not a problem methinks till I discover the bases are hollow and need to be weighted down with water or sand.
Water is easy but being in a school there are issues with waterborne bugs and the constant freeze/thaw cycle in the winter as they are stored outside.
On site there is a 1T bag of sand about half full that the previous guy ordered in for a sandpit, been getting in my way since I started cos there is nowhere else to store it and would have to barrow it everywhere.
Perfect I think until I find the filling bung is 28mm again plenty for a hose but not for damp sand that has been sat out for over a year.
I think it would take me days trying to get it in without a funnel but, I can't find one that suits.
The criteria I came up with was:
1. Nozzle as close to 28mm without binding and not too long to bottom out when not being held
2. Fairly steep funnel to help the sand move.
3 Large area I could tape a DA sander to to also help the sand move.

I will probly end up using it elsewhere afterwards but doubt I will ever end up using it for its intended purpose again.

Also the day and a half of printing will probably save me half a days work with whatever I could find lying around but I am lazy .

 

[Screwdriver]

This is what I am printing atm.

View attachment 329366

Its a one off that I will literally use 4 times for what its desgned for.

A little background, I work as a ite manager at a school and last week I was handed 4 boxes and asked to assmble the contents, 4 mobile netball posts,
Not a problem methinks till I discover the bases are hollow and need to be weighted down with water or sand.
Water is easy but being in a school there are issues with waterborne bugs and the constant freeze/thaw cycle in the winter as they are stored outside.
On site there is a 1T bag of sand about half full that the previous guy ordered in for a sandpit, been getting in my way since I started cos there is nowhere else to store it and would have to barrow it everywhere.
Perfect I think until I find the filling bung is 28mm again plenty for a hose but not for damp sand that has been sat out for over a year.
I think it would take me days trying to get it in without a funnel but, I can't find one that suits.
The criteria I came up with was:
1. Nozzle as close to 28mm without binding and not too long to bottom out when not being held
2. Fairly steep funnel to help the sand move.
3 Large area I could tape a DA sander to to also help the sand move.

I will probly end up using it elsewhere afterwards but doubt I will ever end up using it for its intended purpose again.

Also the day and a half of printing will probably save me half a days work with whatever I could find lying around but I am lazy .

Do it in spiral print mode. Will take half an hour tops. You may prefer to use a larger nozzle but they are surprisingly strong if you put in some reinforcement.

 

[Dev]

I don’t always get the size and tolerance for a tight fit right first time, but when i do it’s so satisfying.
A bushing… bracket…mount for the steering column coming through the bulkhead of the toylander that really ought to have been done by now.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Some testing today after another failed ASA print showed that the nozzle was black again and the Z offset has gone from -3.33 to -3.94 for some reason. It's not the first time I have seen that symptom but with the BL Touch, it shouldn't be able to happen. After resetting, I have made some decent PLA prints again.

 

[AndersK]

Check the pin of the sensor. It has happened me more than once that pin went down during printing, hitting the print and got as lightly bent. Then Z is off.

 

[AndersK]

If you want the waste side jigs for the SP6000, I think it uses a 2.2 mm blade and the files are here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/119376-track-saw-waste-side-kerf-jigs/files (note the comments about nozzle size though)

Thanks, just printed these.
Color-change worked perfectly

I'll give them a try, eyeballing it until now

 

[Dr.Al]

Thanks, just printed these.
Color-change worked perfectly

I'll give them a try, eyeballing it until now
View attachment 329458

It's worth checking them with some calipers to be sure the size is right. Mine were spot on, but if they're slightly oversize they can be easily tweaked with a hand file (on the side nearest the writing). If they're undersize then that's harder, but I guess you could edit the STEP file.

 

[AndersK]

They're within 0,05-0,1 mm so better than I can measure mark with a carpenters pencil

I'll cut some slots, of they slide in it's perfect

 

[DAPPH]

This is what I am printing atm.

View attachment 329366

Its a one off that I will literally use 4 times for what its desgned for.

A little background, I work as a ite manager at a school and last week I was handed 4 boxes and asked to assmble the contents, 4 mobile netball posts,
Not a problem methinks till I discover the bases are hollow and need to be weighted down with water or sand.
Water is easy but being in a school there are issues with waterborne bugs and the constant freeze/thaw cycle in the winter as they are stored outside.
On site there is a 1T bag of sand about half full that the previous guy ordered in for a sandpit, been getting in my way since I started cos there is nowhere else to store it and would have to barrow it everywhere.
Perfect I think until I find the filling bung is 28mm again plenty for a hose but not for damp sand that has been sat out for over a year.
I think it would take me days trying to get it in without a funnel but, I can't find one that suits.
The criteria I came up with was:
1. Nozzle as close to 28mm without binding and not too long to bottom out when not being held
2. Fairly steep funnel to help the sand move.
3 Large area I could tape a DA sander to to also help the sand move.

I will probly end up using it elsewhere afterwards but doubt I will ever end up using it for its intended purpose again.

Also the day and a half of printing will probably save me half a days work with whatever I could find lying around but I am lazy .

Small modified traffic cone ? The make great funnels for all sorts of things including well dried sand or pea grit