Think I might have purchased an Atlas Lathe!!!

[Exuptoy]

I’m well impressed @gaz1 , it’s a bit scary when you stick in something weighty like a hub and forget to turn down the speed!
Overall I’m quite surprised how handy it is, I wanted to clean up part of one of the cut off spokes to verify sizes and even with a right angled end it could still be accommodated past the jaws so I could sand the crud off. Even recovering a worn drum a few times would cover the cost aside from turning my own spacers etc.

Could I justify spending a grand or two on something of better quality, I would have to think long and hard but for my outlay it really is a no brainer. I think the quality of this Atlas is still better than I would have imagined but I do realise that as the price rises so does the machines ability (and the required space!!!). If I keep the cut and feed rate down it’ll do all I want.

It’s quite satisfying listening to the noise as the drum was being skimmed!

 

[Pete.]

It's nice that you're pleased with your lathe and that you're getting reasonable results, I had the exact same machine for a first lathe.

Just don't use anything else or it'll cost you a small fortune when you realise how limited you are by the Atlas' work envelope.

 

[cheb]

You'll love it even more when you make adaptor spacers when fitting parts from different bikes together. The noise made by mine when trimming an octagon down to round, an XR650 disc onto an R100GS cross spoke wheel, was rhythmically hypnotic.

Which leads nicely into industrial music.

 

[Exuptoy]

The chuck key arrived with the two little tools @cheb many thanks matey.
The previous owners mum found the 1/2” tools and chuck keys so if you need the key back no problems otherwise the next person who is stuck I’ll pass it on.

 

[Arc Tourist]

So, I met up with @Arc Tourist tiday to pick up the small indexing tool post. Nice to meet you Mike, many thanks and it’s currently fitted and all’s good. If even indexes once loose enough.
Managed to change out my 3 jaw for the Bernerd 4 jaw, clock it the mount a scabby Z650 rear hub, took a little ovality from the drum, dressed the faces and cleaned up a bad paint job enough to give it a good powdercoat finish along with the rim once I’ve had the chrome stripped off. ………………...

Nice to have met you too sir, look forward to catching up again.
Once you get a feel for the potential of your lathe, you will wonder how you ever got along without it.

 

[cheb]

Pass it on again, I've sufficient for my needs.

Oh, captive spacers for the bike wheel.

 

[Exuptoy]

Just don't use anything else or it'll cost you a small fortune when you realise how limited you are by the Atlas' work envelope.

If I’m still into it in a twelve month I’ll get something like a Boxford.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

The chuck key arrived with the two little tools @cheb many thanks matey.
The previous owners mum found the 1/2” tools and chuck keys so if you need the key back no problems otherwise the next person who is stuck I’ll pass it on.

That's good news. Stuffed full of cold and didn't fancy venturing in the garage over the weekend.

 

[RichardM]

If I’m still into it in a twelve month I’ll get something like a Boxford.

you'll find it indispensable for bits for your bikes.

 

[Gritineye]

Nice to see you're getting stuck in.

The Atlas has limitations, but that will force you to be much more aware of how different setups and tooling can make a big difference and which work best, never a bad thing in my book.

More robust lathes tend to be much less forgiving in terms of more power, deeper cuts and less or no belt/gear slip, bigger tooling and such.

A machinist mate has a Kerry lathe that is on paper the same capacity as my Atlas, but way more capable, once he was watching me turning summat that stalled and said 'You'd never ever get away with that on my Kerry, it takes no prisoners!' Meaning the part, and most likely the lathe would have been wrecked, and sharp things would have been flying around too.

Enjoy, but take care.

 

[DAPPH]

I inherited one from my grandfather in the 1980s, ex lend lease AFAIK. He bought an ex army workshop truck just after WW2, lathe, pillar drill, hand wound grinder and some other bits. My first lathe and I learned lots on it.

Light enough to be a one man carry too.

I've got the original cast iron legs and beech table with my circa 1943 10 F ex war stock Sphere cum Atlas , even without them on it it's got to be close on 250 pounds … I was never in the class of , "Not very bright but can lift heavy fings " .

 

[Exuptoy]

....Which leads me on to a question....
Alongside the head index pin (60 position) there is a pin inside the edge of the index head which when I removed it it had a knurled head with a flat and 2 dimples. When engaged the lathe would turn by hand in one direction but not the other similar to a bicycle cog. Is it meant to be engaged or disengaged for general use? I have the drawings here. I'll have to have a look but thought I'd ask. Also even when the take off handle to engage the forward or reverse on the lead screw, the screw still turns and stops from time to time but as soon as you try to engage the drive handle on the apron it won't allow the lead screw to engage. I'm sure when I had it the lead screw didn't turn unless engaged for forward or reverse. Does that even make sense?

 

[DAPPH]

Apparently thousands were imported during WW2, Spitfire parts amongst others.

I'm the third owner of my 10 F branded as a Sphere but it was purchased in it's original greased cloth in a packing crate with USA marking … funny thing is the front LH foot has Sphere made in Britain cast in to it .
The original owner was a submarine weapons officer playing with torpedoes it was the same model they were using to make the timing screws for torpedoes . When he died it was bequeathed to his son (also a torpedo design engineer in the Navy )according to his son , whom I purchased it off .


My lathe has a lot of Bakelite on it :- the tailstock hand wheel , the pulley cover, the F/R gearbox cover , the back of the top slide cover , the cross shaft pulley set , the motor & driven pulleys and the lead screw engagement knob . It seems it may have been a special forth royal navy as Robert on a site in the USA had records of nearly all lathes produced under the Atlas & craftsman name .

 

[Gritineye]

....Which leads me on to a question....
Alongside the head index pin (60 position) there is a pin inside the edge of the index head which when I removed it it had a knurled head with a flat and 2 dimples. When engaged the lathe would turn by hand in one direction but not the other similar to a bicycle cog. Is it meant to be engaged or disengaged for general use? I have the drawings here. I'll have to have a look but thought I'd ask. Also even when the take off handle to engage the forward or reverse on the lead screw, the screw still turns and stops from time to time but as soon as you try to engage the drive handle on the apron it won't allow the lead screw to engage. I'm sure when I had it the lead screw didn't turn unless engaged for forward or reverse. Does that even make sense?

Not sure what you mean but the indexing pin should always be disengaged, unless actually using it for indexing, when the lathe should always be switched off and unplugged.

As to the reversing gear there is a simple dog clutch that may not be fully engaging, you have to be gentle and get to know this bit to avoid breakage.

The drive handle on the apron closes the half nuts around the lead screw, so you have to time it so that the threads match, you'll soon get the hang of it, but be gentle and it'll slide in smoothly.

Edit, read you question wrong ignore the bit about the pin..

 

[DAPPH]

....Which leads me on to a question....
Alongside the head index pin (60 position) there is a pin inside the edge of the index head which when I removed it it had a knurled head with a flat and 2 dimples. When engaged the lathe would turn by hand in one direction but not the other similar to a bicycle cog. Is it meant to be engaged or disengaged for general use? I have the drawings here. I'll have to have a look but thought I'd ask. Also even when the take off handle to engage the forward or reverse on the lead screw, the screw still turns and stops from time to time but as soon as you try to engage the drive handle on the apron it won't allow the lead screw to engage. I'm sure when I had it the lead screw didn't turn unless engaged for forward or reverse. Does that even make sense?

It seems you are talking about the bull gear pin that when pulled to the right breaks the spindle drive into two . In the middle of the belt pulley is a grub screw and an oil hole , carefully remove the grub screw on a magnetised Allen key turn the pulley so it is upper most and squirt some compressor oil in the hole , put the grub screw back in very carefully so you don't cross thread it .
Make sure the bull pin is pushed in fully and run the lathe to spread the oil about , unplug the lathe .. pull the bull pin to the right ( I have to use a long wide blade screwdriver to lever it gently very gently ) once the bull pin is fully to the right gently rock the pulley and engage the back gear . You should now be able to turn the main cross shaft drive pulley by hand and see the massive reduction in chuck movement . If it's still stuck .. take the grub screw out and use a long squirt of WD40 in the hole ..replace the grub screw unless you want an oil bath .
Thus allowing the back gears to be used to get really slow speeds as low as 28 rpm see page one part four of the MOLO " The machining of various materials ".

 

[DAPPH]

That’s quite alright mate. Not in a rush. Once I have something I can use I’ll probably have a shot making one.

Give a lot of thought to having the lathe on the stand as far towards you as is safe so you don't have to lean over it …and have the chuck centre at elbow height …….. as you get older you'll appreciate doing this not just because of back probems but eyesight changes too .

 

[Gritineye]

I'm the third owner of my 10 F branded as a Sphere but it was purchased in it's original greased cloth in a packing crate with USA marking … funny thing is the front LH foot has Sphere made in Britain cast in to it .
The original owner was a submarine weapons officer playing with torpedoes it was the same model they were using to make the timing screws for torpedoes . When he diedsit was bequeathed to his son (also a torpedo design engineer in the Navy )according to his son , whom I Purchased it off .


My lathe has a lot of Bakelite on it :- the tailstock hand wheel , the pulley cover, the F/R gearbox cover , the back of the top slide cover , the cross shaft pulley set , the motor & driven pulleys and the lead screw engagement knob . It seems it may have been a special forth royal navy as Robert on a site in the USA had records of nearly all lathes produced under the Atlas & craftsman name .

Sounds like you got a good deal there Dapph, if you haven't seen it before there's a lot of info here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page9.html

 

[DAPPH]

Sounds like you got a good deal there Dapph, if you haven't seen it before there's a lot of info here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page9.html

Thanks for that Gritineye ,

Tony has updated the pages since I contacted him several years ago . Who knows I might even be able to give him some decent pictures this year so long as COVID 19 does not get me ( I'm 70 , diabetic , erratic heart beat and have a wicked sense of humour )

 

[Gritineye]

Thanks for that Gritineye ,

Tony has updated the pages since I contacted him several years ago . Who knows I might even be able to give him some decent pictures this year so long as COVID 19 does not get me ( I'm 70 , diabetic , erratic heart beat and have a wicked sense of humour )

You've got 4 yrs on me then!

 

[Exuptoy]

I feel like a young pup at 49 (in June)

Cheers @Gritineye I actually used the index pin to swap over the chucks but they weren't really tight. As @DAPPH suggests it is indeed the bull gear pin. I pulled it out earlier and it didn't show any resistance to being removed (only noticed the pin as it was partially out earlier) so I am assuming the location detent with the spring inside the back gear is faulty.

I found this on H-M

This is the pin, half hidden but accessible on the front of the Bull Gear (large spindle gear), that must be pulled out before engaging back gear. Engaging back gear without pulling out this pin locks the spindle. This "feature" can be engaged for normal chuck removal but using this method to lock the spindle in order to try to remove a stuck chuck often results in a broken bull gear, so should NOT be used for that.



And the part is below on the right.