Think I might have purchased an Atlas Lathe!!!

[Gritineye]

I feel like a young pup at 49 (in June) ]

The perfect age, old enough to know better, but young enough to learn..

My preferred method of chuck removal is to fit my favourite nearly as old as me adjustable spanner to one of the lathe jaws, put my plywood way protector under the chuck, (always do that bit when anything heavy is about to be over the bed) engage the back gear, then give the spanner a good whack down with the palm of my hand.

There is an inbuilt overload warning sound that goes something like Oww FFS!!

I then hold the chuck in my right hand and turn the spindle in reverse by grabbing the big motor pulley wheel with my left, which winds the chuck off, I like to think this method avoids any sharp gear breaking shocks.

YMMV...

 

[Exuptoy]

Haha I like that.

Been watching Tubelcain (Pete222) Atlas video regarding feed rates and I think I have my head around the gear set up now (especially as I have a copy of the MOLO manual on my phone ).
I'll have a play tomorrow.

 

[Pete.]

This is the pin, half hidden but accessible on the front of the Bull Gear (large spindle gear), that must be pulled out before engaging back gear. Engaging back gear without pulling out this pin locks the spindle. This "feature" can be engaged for normal chuck removal but using this method to lock the spindle in order to try to remove a stuck chuck often results in a broken bull gear, so should NOT be used for that.

You absolutely should not do that. Many a back gear has been smashed using that method.

The 60-hole index is handy because it divides by 1,2,3,4,5,6,10,12,15,20,30 and 60 though you could argue that a 48 might be more useful.

 

[Exuptoy]

Yeah @Pete. I found it on the Hobby Machinist forum. Not my recommendation or practice may I add. I used the index pin as it was not tight (not the bull gear / back gear pin).

 

[Exuptoy]

Next project lined up......lathe bench.

Total cost of 10.4m of 25x25 and 9.6m of 50x25 and a 1250x600 sheet of 5mm steel plate, all cut to length - £96 inc vat.

Watch this space.....

 

[DAPPH]

The perfect age, old enough to know better, but young enough to learn..

My preferred method of chuck removal is to fit my favourite nearly as old as me adjustable spanner to one of the lathe jaws, put my plywood way protector under the chuck, (always do that bit when anything heavy is about to be over the bed) engage the back gear, then give the spanner a good whack down with the palm of my hand.

There is an inbuilt overload warning sound that goes something like Oww FFS!!

I then hold the chuck in my right hand and turn the spindle in reverse by grabbing the big motor pulley wheel with my left, which winds the chuck off, I like to think this method avoids any sharp gear breaking shocks.

YMMV...

Put the belts on the pulleys select a slow speed . Get a gert big Allen key put it in the chuck slip a tube on it . Slightly tension things , give the tube a randy kiss with a 1 kg rubber hammer roughly where the end of the Allen key is .

Eventually you may end up with a 2inch or so sized AF hexagonal off cut . I was lucky and was given a pair of lorry wheel nuts which I welded together . Use that in the chuck with a proper ring spanner on a tough to remove chuck .

 

[DAPPH]

Haha I like that.

Been watching Tubelcain (Pete222) Atlas video regarding feed rates and I think I have my head around the gear set up now (especially as I have a copy of the MOLO manual on my phone ).
I'll have a play tomorrow.

I have made pictures of each gear train set up for certain speeds ( all the ones mentioned on the chart ) nd put them in heat sealed envelopes , made a folder up and it hangs by my lathe .
If you ever get here you're welcome to copy /photograph them .

Next project lined up......lathe bench.

Total cost of 10.4m of 25x25 and 9.6m of 50x25 and a 1250x600 sheet of 5mm steel plate, all cut to length - £96 inc vat.

Watch this space.....

View attachment 215649

Perhaps before you mountht elathe on it p ut it on 100 mm lockable hard nylon castors and add a floor & shelf for stock tools . that way it's easy to clean out behind & under it , adjust the saddle gibs and pull forward /move so you can run stock through the head stock spindle tube

 

[DAPPH]

Haha I like that.

Been watching Tubelcain (Pete222) Atlas video regarding feed rates and I think I have my head around the gear set up now (especially as I have a copy of the MOLO manual on my phone ).
I'll have a play tomorrow.

I have made pictures of each gear train set up for certain speeds ( all the ones mentioned on the chart ) nd put them in heat sealed envelopes , made a folder up and it hangs by my lathe .
If you ever get here you're welcome to copy /photograph them .

Next project lined up......lathe bench.

Total cost of 10.4m of 25x25 and 9.6m of 50x25 and a 1250x600 sheet of 5mm steel plate, all cut to length - £96 inc vat.

Watch this space.....

View attachment 215649

Perhaps before you mount the lathe on it put it on 100 mm lockable hard nylon castors and add a floor & shelf for stock, tools . that way it's easy to clean out behind & under it , adjust the saddle gibs and pull forward /move so you can run stock through

the head stock spindle tube ​

It's also handy for access when moving the banjo if there is not a lot of room to the left of the lathe when up setting new gear trains

 

[gaz1]

I have made pictures of each gear train set up for certain speeds ( all the ones mentioned on the chart ) nd put them in heat sealed envelopes , made a folder up and it hangs by my lathe .
If you ever get here you're welcome to copy /photograph them .

get a cheap laminater and laminate the gear train set and stick it into a small booklet

stops grease and oil getting on them

i like the photo frame i have with everything on it

 

[Exuptoy]

I saw a post somewhere with a set of castors and feet and when in place the castors drop away on to the feet.

 

[cheb]

Could you adapt a set of pool table wheels? Lever down to move and when the lever is up it sits on its feet.

 

[gaz1]

I saw a post somewhere with a set of castors and feet and when in place the castors drop away on to the feet.

@Munkul posted this

I value all my tools... if they work and do a good job for me, I like em. Even down to the cheap ones like rules and protractors, up to the heftiest ones (power guillotine capable of 1/4" plate)

However... this is the one that actually makes me money:

 

[Exuptoy]

Thinking about this. Low profile casters on the end.

 

[Exuptoy]

2 x new cabinets purchased from Ikea today for the lathe stand £40 along with my previously purchased bisley style draw also from Ikea (£29). A few more little bits and I’ll be ready to fab it. It’s all in my head.

 

[Exuptoy]

This kit just arrived (aside from the 2 6mm tools and small chuck key, they arrived courtesy of @cheb - cheers buddy)
Not sure if the blue ones are cheap Chinese things that don’t work but there’s quite a few here. Didn’t even know what most do. I have been on eBay and put the DIN number in so I have some idea now.

 

[Dr.Al]

They're all brazed carbide cutting tools for various different purposes. I can see internal and external threading tools, boring tools general purpose turning tools and what looks like a tool for cutting an internal groove. The round ones are for a boring head or similar.

The blue lathe tools will be provided with the shape nominally right for the application, but in my experience they'll need touching up on a green grit wheel before they'll give good results. In the case of the boring head tools, they'll probably need a fair bit of reshaping as well.

There's a rather ranty video about that type of boring head tool here:

 

[Exuptoy]

Just spent 20 mins in the cave and had a shot parting off a piece of 30mm Ali bar with the hss tool I got earlier. What I will say is I don’t think the grind was that accurate as the tailstock side of the parting was scored and convex so maybe a blade type would have been better, also if I gave it some beans it would slow the machine down so I had to keep feeding and backing off maybe 20-30thou a time until it went through. You could also see some sideways movement at the workpiece with each cut. All in all though it was ok and allowed me then to face off the end when finished.
It’s all experience eh?

 

[Gritineye]

Yep, all good fun experience and you're brave to try parting so early!

Just by way of being an annoying show off, but mainly to give you something to shoot for, here's one I did earlier

 

[Gritineye]

You need to face off the workpiece, then square the parting tool across the face. Then lock the carriage with the square nut by the threading dial

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

You need to face off the workpiece, then square the parting tool across the face. Then lock the carriage with the square nut by the threading dial

This. And play with the tool height for best results
Never understood the fuss with parting off. Gone smoothly from the start.