Badger1bear
If your not on fire, then your too far away
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It was posted up on Facebook for 10 minutes and SOLD !!
All the steel was rolled by hand
- Thread starter arthur
- Start date
It was posted up on Facebook for 10 minutes and SOLD !!
All the steel was rolled by hand
Badger1bear
If your not on fire, then your too far away
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Bacon is ready
Gareth0123
You'll need 16 pigs to do the job in one sitting!
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I didn't weld it today, that I did last week, but the customer collected it today...... another levitation device for a street performer.
Me trying out to make sure everything is OK
And my customer when he collected it:
Me trying out to make sure everything is OK
And my customer when he collected it:
God mode restorations
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Tiggy_dorset
It looks just like a bought one!
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- Weymouth, Dorset, UK
Probably the most uninteresting post in the thread - but I thought Id share just to show how much of an easy afternoon I have had 
4 plug welds on each tube, 100 off tubes....easy peesy.
Now Im spending my evening electro stripping bright nickel from some faulty jobs.
4 plug welds on each tube, 100 off tubes....easy peesy.
Now Im spending my evening electro stripping bright nickel from some faulty jobs.
Tiggy_dorset
It looks just like a bought one!
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Paul.
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Only the stainless hinge and the mounting straps, the box is tigged together.Riveted...thats cheating
Nice work though.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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it is good work. I need to learn to TIG.
Ive been making a new fuel tank retaining strap and brackets for the handbrake on my car, as the originals seem to rust away far too easily. I have had the originals plated, power coated and painted at various times so I thought I'd make some from stainless this time. if these were mild steel I'd have mig welded them, but as they're stainless I tought it would be better to tig them, and as Im a beginner I need the practice, (and thats my excuse for the welding not being pretty).
so heres the parts before joining together (the ruler isn't for scale, its one of the parts)
the fuel tank strap is made from an Aldi square as its spring stainless and the original strap is spring steel. I ended up plug welding the parts together with 308 rods as the sheet metal parts are from 430 stainless and I have no idea what the square's grade would be
then the cable linkages were done, the smaller one was made from one peice, but the larger one was in 2 peices, and using 308 rods again
then the brackets that hold the handbrake cable to the rear axle. I do like the idea of being able to use autogenous welds for joining nuts to sheet metal (should be very neat once I've got the hang of it). If this was done by mig using mild steel, I would have just used a nut and bolt to hold the nut in place and used 3 tack welds on altenat faces of the nut to hold it in place, and then removed the bolt. so far using this method autogenous welds on stainless with a tig has been a dismal failure, as Ive never been able to remove the bolts. in this case they are M8 nuts so I drill the holes 9mm and then turn the end of the nuts down so they a lip that will locate in the hole (so you know that the thread is in the correct place).
and then the tube is then welded on,again with 308 rods
so there you go,its not pretty but should hold together. I've got to say I find it to be quite relaxing doing the metalwork preparation by hand using files and hacksaw. the slots were chain drilled with overlaping holes and then just tidied up with files. for years I used to try to cut smaller pieces of sheet metal while held verically in a vice, now I clamp a piece of wood in the vice and clamp the sheet metal to the wood and find is much more accurate when working to a scribed line.
so heres the parts before joining together (the ruler isn't for scale, its one of the parts)
the fuel tank strap is made from an Aldi square as its spring stainless and the original strap is spring steel. I ended up plug welding the parts together with 308 rods as the sheet metal parts are from 430 stainless and I have no idea what the square's grade would be
then the cable linkages were done, the smaller one was made from one peice, but the larger one was in 2 peices, and using 308 rods again
then the brackets that hold the handbrake cable to the rear axle. I do like the idea of being able to use autogenous welds for joining nuts to sheet metal (should be very neat once I've got the hang of it). If this was done by mig using mild steel, I would have just used a nut and bolt to hold the nut in place and used 3 tack welds on altenat faces of the nut to hold it in place, and then removed the bolt. so far using this method autogenous welds on stainless with a tig has been a dismal failure, as Ive never been able to remove the bolts. in this case they are M8 nuts so I drill the holes 9mm and then turn the end of the nuts down so they a lip that will locate in the hole (so you know that the thread is in the correct place).
and then the tube is then welded on,again with 308 rods
so there you go,its not pretty but should hold together. I've got to say I find it to be quite relaxing doing the metalwork preparation by hand using files and hacksaw. the slots were chain drilled with overlaping holes and then just tidied up with files. for years I used to try to cut smaller pieces of sheet metal while held verically in a vice, now I clamp a piece of wood in the vice and clamp the sheet metal to the wood and find is much more accurate when working to a scribed line.
Wendelspanswick
Member
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Good work, do the nuts have to be welded or could you use Clinch Nuts?
never thought of that, wish you'd said that before I welded them. the fas ace opposite the nut needs to be flat though, and if you hav'n't got self clinching fasteners but need just a handful they are easy enough to make with a lathe. I made one using an m8 nyloc nut, as they are taller than normal nuts and I was using 2mm sheet metal.
use a lathe tool with a 60 or 70 degree point set up like this in the lathe
then face off the end of the nyloc so you can remove the nylon part
then take cut along the late axis to leave a shoulder on the nut. as the tool is an an angle the shoulder that is cut will not be square and the corners of the nut will stick out further.
drill a hole that the shoulder of the nut will fit in and chamfer the hole.
next put the nut in the hole and hit it with a hammer of the corners of the shoulder bite into the sheet metal (this should stop it rotating in use).
then turn it over and place a ball pien hammer of the nut and hit that with another hammer to deform the edge of the shoulder to the shape of the chamfer, which should stop it from falling out.
and the finished article, home made self clinching fasteners, when you cant wait for them in the post (and sorry about the quality of the pics)
my version of TR fastenings Hank bushes
http://www.trfastenings.com/pages/Hank+Hexagon+Rivet+Bushes+Metric
use a lathe tool with a 60 or 70 degree point set up like this in the lathe
then face off the end of the nyloc so you can remove the nylon part
then take cut along the late axis to leave a shoulder on the nut. as the tool is an an angle the shoulder that is cut will not be square and the corners of the nut will stick out further.
drill a hole that the shoulder of the nut will fit in and chamfer the hole.
next put the nut in the hole and hit it with a hammer of the corners of the shoulder bite into the sheet metal (this should stop it rotating in use).
then turn it over and place a ball pien hammer of the nut and hit that with another hammer to deform the edge of the shoulder to the shape of the chamfer, which should stop it from falling out.
and the finished article, home made self clinching fasteners, when you cant wait for them in the post (and sorry about the quality of the pics)
my version of TR fastenings Hank bushes
http://www.trfastenings.com/pages/Hank+Hexagon+Rivet+Bushes+Metric
cumbriasteve
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and place a ball pien hammer of the nut and hit that with another hammer
Whilst that idea will work for the task I would advise against it, there is an urban myth that banging two hammers together will cause one of them to explode into bits, that is wrong but what can happen is small chips can fly off at high speed.. more likely to happen if the hammers are tempered to the same degree of hardness.
When running safety courses I had a small collection of injury photo's caused by hammer bashing, some of them were big time sickening.
Whilst that idea will work for the task I would advise against it, there is an urban myth that banging two hammers together will cause one of them to explode into bits, that is wrong but what can happen is small chips can fly off at high speed.. more likely to happen if the hammers are tempered to the same degree of hardness.
When running safety courses I had a small collection of injury photo's caused by hammer bashing, some of them were big time sickening.
doubleboost
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Corsa manifold /cat
Cast to steel
Cast to steel
cumbriasteve
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I bet the customer was glad you saved that from being replaced with a new one.
doubleboost
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Saved him £120
Just a young lad trying to run a car to get to work
Otherwise I would just have replaced the cat
Badger1bear
If your not on fire, then your too far away
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Thought you guys might like to see " Badger The Devil " in his new home and at work
