- Thread starter Burdekin
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vw1
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- solihull uk
Both for meI don't know what impresses me more; the quality of your work or the tidiness/organisation of your workspace
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
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Stunning work,
Nothing but praise,
Only in my dreams.
Nothing but praise,
Only in my dreams.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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- Aberdeen
It's a constant battle. Half of Saturday was spent cleaning the workshop after the mess of stripping the paint.I don't know what impresses me more; the quality of your work or the tidiness/organisation of your workspace
Morris
Member
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I think you are seriously under selling yourself there. You are doing a superb job.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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Yeah wasn't until the 240 series in the 70s that the tank moved further forward. Even the 140 series the tank was mounted in the same place.
vw1
Member
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- solihull uk
This project is definitely a work of art.
massive work done!
What type of epoxy primer did you use on body panels? Also, why epoxy mastic in the interior and engine bay? Thought it is more suitable for underside
Did it sanded well (for being a mastic)? Maybe I'll be tempted to do the in the interior!
What type of epoxy primer did you use on body panels? Also, why epoxy mastic in the interior and engine bay? Thought it is more suitable for underside
Did it sanded well (for being a mastic)? Maybe I'll be tempted to do the in the interior!
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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Epoxy mastic primers or epoxy primers should be used anywhere you want corrosion protection, excellent bond to the substrate and or want to seal old paint. I think epoxy mastics have a better substrate bond so there is no reason in my head you'd chose a epoxy primer over a epoxy mastic and a epoxy primer will also be an excellent choice. This is a 1969 Volvo Amazon and I’ve not had a issue painting over with epoxies so it gives a great base for the 2k solid topcoat to go over. I wet on wet so I didn’t need to sand between the epoxy and the topcoat but I wasn’t happy with the orange peel in the engine bay so flatted the topcoat and gave it another couple of coats so it’s nice and flat now. Engine bays and floors are typical areas that get wet and rust in old cars so 100% should have a epoxy barrier in my opinion. How you go about prepping for bodywork and how much you sand the epoxy primer is really down to how you want to do things. Block and fill over epoxy then seal over with epoxy, or 2k high build primer over the epoxy and filling and sealing with 2k primer sealer, or epoxy, polyester primer, sealer, 2k high build primer etc etc.
What brands, types etc has been discussed loads on here but any of the high solids epoxy mastics or epoxy primers from a reputable company will do a good job.
What brands, types etc has been discussed loads on here but any of the high solids epoxy mastics or epoxy primers from a reputable company will do a good job.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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- Aberdeen
Stripped the fuel tank and epoxy primed it. I also reduced the pressing wrinkles in the ends with my shrinking disc, still no where near perfect but a little better than when it came from the factory. It was more of a play around and a bit of learning to see if it would work. Think I might use my big 2.5mm primer gun to spray the whole tank with Raptor before overcoating it with polyurethane 2k black topcoat.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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- 6,685
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- Aberdeen
Made a start on the brake and fuel lines. Been a bit frustrating sorting what bits are there, ordering new bits, my flaring tool didn’t have 5/16” dies for the fuel line, lost my old tube bender etc but making a bit of progress now. Need some more clamps, hence the masking tape. Also added 5mm rivnuts to screw into rather than self tappers. Hopefully have her back on her wheels soon.
