3D Printing

[DAPPH]

Give everybody a mask?

It's easy enough buy a cheap Formica topped table with wooden legs , screw a balanced 1/2 " plywood back on it and put a piped computer fan as the exhaust to the outside of the building at least 30 inches from any opening window or door , enclose the other three sides with 5 mm Perspex that can be slid in & out of pre formed alu grooves screwed to the top 7 bottom of the legs , so you have a three sided viewable enclosure. If you want a belt and braces job screw on a 44 mm thick ply floor to th bottom of the legs .
Fit it up with a fire safety device that also triggers a mains cut out & fills the cabinet with a fire safe extinguishing foam if there is too much heat in the cabinet .

I have made a similar cabinet for my prusa It has two bright LED lights in it , I'll be printing the flanges & nozzles etc.needed to connect up the pond water 2" extraction pipe to a computer fan , in a separate box there will be an old computer PSU for the fan power also screwed on box to remove the fumes from the room .

 

[Onoff]

3D printed, 2 piece handle to connect two Occulus Rift VR controllers together to make a Darth Maul style light sabre. Used for playing Beat Saber. They interlock but I've backed the joint up with self amalgamating tape:

 

[Parm]

Don't the Chinese go in for 50 year plans? As in sow the seeds for a future health epidemic in the West perhaps?

I must admit I've got a Chinese Bluetooth amp up in the loft. I wonder how that'd fare against a big supply over voltage? Imagine multiple house fires country wide!

Still, it's not as even though they have any control over our power utilities, emergency service's comms systems etc...

them lads just do whatever

I’m listening to music right now on a chinese blue tooth amp. So far so good !!!!!

 

[ukracer]

It's easy enough buy a cheap Formica topped table with wooden legs , screw a balanced 1/2 " plywood back on it and put a piped computer fan as the exhaust to the outside of the building at least 30 inches from any opening window or door , enclose the other three sides with 5 mm Perspex that can be slid in & out of pre formed alu grooves screwed to the top 7 bottom of the legs , so you have a three sided viewable enclosure. If you want a belt and braces job screw on a 44 mm thick ply floor to th bottom of the legs .
Fit it up with a fire safety device that also triggers a mains cut out & fills the cabinet with a fire safe extinguishing foam if there is too much heat in the cabinet .

I have made a similar cabinet for my prusa It has two bright LED lights in it , I'll be printing the flanges & nozzles etc.needed to connect up the pond water 2" extraction pipe to a computer fan , in a separate box there will be an old computer PSU for the fan power also screwed on box to remove the fumes from the room .

How do you get the output from the piped computer fan to outside 30 inches away from doors not Windows?

But also you are aware you need special filament if the item is to be used in water,?

 

[Onoff]

I should have printed the fridge handle in antibacterial PLA maybe:

https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/material/antibacterial-pla

 

[AndersK]

...or FDA compliant Nylon

https://addnorth.com/en/shop/product/ANAF25PLC

...or sheet metal as I did when I broke my plastic fridge handle
Still holds after 7 years

 

[Onoff]

We have a winner! Well, other than it's off white compared to the fridge paint. So much smoother etc than the previous print! Pity about the split in the seal...

The profile isn't a bad match either:

 

[ukracer]

We have a winner! Well, other than it's off white compared to the fridge paint. So much smoother etc than the previous print! Pity about the split in the seal...

View attachment 208268

View attachment 208269

The profile isn't a bad match either:

View attachment 208270

That's class... Ok next question. If you had to copy that how would you get that into fusion. Sizes I follow but curves I fail to see how to transfer that info without a 3D scanner (which cost a fortune . Lol

 

[BelgiqueB]

Anycubic Chiron here, really like it and it's a really handy tool to have around the workshop. I did have my fair share of problems with it, but what can you expect from a 400 euro chinese printer?

If you have it set up properly the print quality of a cheap china one will not be far off from the (much) more expensive printers if not match it, build quality wise it's miles of.

 

[Onoff]

That's class... Ok next question. If you had to copy that how would you get that into fusion. Sizes I follow but curves I fail to see how to transfer that info without a 3D scanner (which cost a fortune . Lol

I don't think this ever saw Fusion 360. I'd ask No.1 son but it'll be hours before he surfaces!

I measured the old fridge handle with a manual, Mauser vernier caliper. Took a few liberties and made things a bit "squarer" to make the printing process easier.

In effect I drew it as an outline and just extruded it up to a height. I then put a minimum radius on every corner to make things a bit more ergonomic but not so much as to require supports.

Did a couple of test prints of small sections to get the profile where it fits the door edge correct.

All drawn in AutoCAD. Exported as an stl using the 3DPRINT command. Lad opened it in Cura.

We're currently mulling printing a 3D scanner turntable that you strap a mobile phone into.

 

[ukracer]

Anycubic Chiron here, really like it and it's a really handy tool to have around the workshop. I did have my fair share of problems with it, but what can you expect from a 400 euro chinese printer?

If you have it set up properly the print quality of a cheap china one will not be far off from the (much) more expensive printers if not match it, build quality wise it's miles of.


View attachment 208290 View attachment 208291 View attachment 208293 View attachment 208294 View attachment 208295 View attachment 208296 View attachment 208297 View attachment 208298 View attachment 208299

We definitely need somewhere to put useful STL files like that. It's one thing searching thingiverse but knowing what to search for is not easy.
Would you be happy to upload those files to a shared Dropbox folder by any chance. I could then give interested parties the link.

 

[BelgiqueB]

We definitely need somewhere to put useful STL files like that. It's one thing searching thingiverse but knowing what to search for is not easy.
Would you be happy to upload those files to a shared Dropbox folder by any chance. I could then give interested parties the link.

Great minds and all that , was thinking the exact same thing this morning! There is a wealth of stuff on thingiverse but sometimes hard to find, I started a thread for sharing stuff like this:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/handy-3d-prints-for-the-workshop.97647/#post-1476931

 

[ukracer]

I don't think this ever saw Fusion 360. I'd ask No.1 son but it'll be hours before he surfaces!

I measured the old fridge handle with a manual, Mauser vernier caliper. Took a few liberties and made things a bit "squarer" to make the printing process easier.

In effect I drew it as an outline and just extruded it up to a height. I then put a minimum radius on every corner to make things a bit more ergonomic but not so much as to require supports.

Did a couple of test prints of small sections to get the profile where it fits the door edge correct.

All drawn in AutoCAD. Exported as an stl using the 3DPRINT command. Lad opened it in Cura.

We're currently mulling printing a 3D scanner turntable that you strap a mobile phone into.

No rush...lol
It's just bugging me that I can't find much info on it.
I can't find much into on CNC Routing from a pattern either.
I am guessing after seeing a simple video of a clamp being made that the principle is similar in that unlike 3D printing you print in one plane. (Upwards in our case) routing can't do that after its cut the top face and perhaps sides. You need to flip it over and do the opposite side.

Whether they use a separate G code or if it all follows with pauses I don't know yet.
My brain is suggesting it's like a manual mill (in you need to rotate the part) but you need to tell it the operations for each side.

BTW today might be the day.

It's not a finished photo as I don't have one yet but the one that's bolted on the car is. It's behind the disc though. Lol

 

[Onoff]

Evening, need some Fusion 360 help!

This is the .stp file of an Oculus S, VR game controller opened up in Fusion 360. It's from the maker's website:

It's not one piece but two, with an irregular nominal gap between them 0.3mm down to zero ('ish). In effect the join. Seems the actual controller the two halves are glued together.

What we want to do is create a solid cylinder, insert the "male" controller then subtract it from the cylinder leaving us with a "cup" in the end of the cylinder.

Because the controller isn't one entity we're having trouble. Almost wants the gap filling then the two halves along with the "fill" combining into one entity.

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers

 

[Onoff]

If anyone does have any pointers to the above question then please fire away, it'd be good to know for the future. However, found this which we're hoping to graft onto the model for the earlier Oculus Rift:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652161

I really MUST try and learn this Fusion 360 thing, my lad thinks I'm a bit of a Luddite for being stuck in the past using AutoCAD! I can still teach him a few tricks though!

 

[daedalusminos]

Seam stitch might work but it really depends on how the model has been imported

 

[Onoff]

Seam stitch might work but it really depends on how the model has been imported

I can send you the file if you want to try?

 

[hotponyshoes]

Evening, need some Fusion 360 help!

This is the .stp file of an Oculus S, VR game controller opened up in Fusion 360. It's from the maker's website:

View attachment 208631
It's not one piece but two, with an irregular nominal gap between them 0.3mm down to zero ('ish). In effect the join. Seems the actual controller the two halves are glued together.

What we want to do is create a solid cylinder, insert the "male" controller then subtract it from the cylinder leaving us with a "cup" in the end of the cylinder.

Because the controller isn't one entity we're having trouble. Almost wants the gap filling then the two halves along with the "fill" combining into one entity.

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers

If the gap is 0.3 could you not just drag one half away from the other, extrude the inner face of one side by 0.3 then drop them back together?

You might have to extrude all the low spots as I expect they have added a few 0.3m lumps to give a minimum thickness of glue.

 

[8ob]

Sat on the fence here, would like a 3D printer for mold making but ultimately the only one big enough for my needs is the 500x500mm Creality. Ed is convinced the print time on something like a bell housing would take too long and it would be better off subbed out to a company with a commercial machine, at £500 ish wondering if I should give it a go.

Bob

 

[Shox Dr]

Sat on the fence here, would like a 3D printer for mold making but ultimately the only one big enough for my needs is the 500x500mm Creality. Ed is convinced the print time on something like a bell housing would take too long and it would be better off subbed out to a company with a commercial machine, at £500 ish wondering if I should give it a go.

Bob

You only have to buy it once Bob. Besides; better to have and not need than to need and not have