- Thread starter Paul.
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Paul.
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Another quickish job today, a part of the body of an industrial suction cleaner, a bit rusty to say the least, "can you make a new un?" course I can.
The original has rolled edges, I've no way of doing that on 1.5mm stainless so a piece of 8mm dia bar rolled round does the same thing, its for a clamping band that holds it to the body.
Weld the outer edges then cut a hole, don't let anyone tell you can't cut curves with a cutting disc,
Then open it out to size with a flap disc, worn ones are ideal for this rather than take the edge off a new one,
And roll and weld a tube
The rolled edge on the small tube also made with a round bar, but fitted on the inside, its all fully welded and just cleaned off by hand with a flap wheel, no fancy weld polishing required on this item, it will be used in a food factory effluent plant for sucking fat out of a settling tank.
The finished job,
The original has rolled edges, I've no way of doing that on 1.5mm stainless so a piece of 8mm dia bar rolled round does the same thing, its for a clamping band that holds it to the body.
Weld the outer edges then cut a hole, don't let anyone tell you can't cut curves with a cutting disc,
Then open it out to size with a flap disc, worn ones are ideal for this rather than take the edge off a new one,
And roll and weld a tube
The rolled edge on the small tube also made with a round bar, but fitted on the inside, its all fully welded and just cleaned off by hand with a flap wheel, no fancy weld polishing required on this item, it will be used in a food factory effluent plant for sucking fat out of a settling tank.
The finished job,
Bill Edwards
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Nice.
Can't you just get hold of roundup for the weeds, that stuff works.
Can't you just get hold of roundup for the weeds, that stuff works.
Paul.
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Nothing much different to report this week, mostly more barriers as above, here is one being fabbed up, that G clamps not very tight so wont mark the box, should really have a plate under it though.
And for the weld fetishists some pretty coloured tig welds,
Also made a couple of stainless ladders, 50 x 10 flat with 20mm dia solid rungs, the offset in the stiles made by the cut n bend method. at 3.5 mtrs long its bigger than it looks in the photo
And for the weld fetishists some pretty coloured tig welds,
Also made a couple of stainless ladders, 50 x 10 flat with 20mm dia solid rungs, the offset in the stiles made by the cut n bend method. at 3.5 mtrs long its bigger than it looks in the photo
Paul.
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A bit of sheet work finished this week, a couple of chutes for over a rubbish hatch to replace this flap,
I normally bend stuff like this on my mates press but it was tied up on a bigish job so I pushed the little folder far beyond what it was designed for to get these made, the top beam flexes a bit with 1.5mm stainless so the box section clamped on stiffens it up a bit, not the first time I've had to do this and I bet its not the last...
Tacking it up
The finished job, the flap is kept closed with a couple of captivated thumbscrews, it will be kept closed when in use but has to open for cleaning
I normally bend stuff like this on my mates press but it was tied up on a bigish job so I pushed the little folder far beyond what it was designed for to get these made, the top beam flexes a bit with 1.5mm stainless so the box section clamped on stiffens it up a bit, not the first time I've had to do this and I bet its not the last...
Tacking it up
The finished job, the flap is kept closed with a couple of captivated thumbscrews, it will be kept closed when in use but has to open for cleaning
sardine
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@Paul.
I've got a sheet of 1 mm S/S that was originally a tube about a metre in diameter, so its still curved, and I want to get it folded into a shower tray, 800 x 1000 mm, can it be rolled flat again or should I just get it made with new steel ?
What's a welded tray 1000 x 800 x 200 h going to cost ?
I've got a sheet of 1 mm S/S that was originally a tube about a metre in diameter, so its still curved, and I want to get it folded into a shower tray, 800 x 1000 mm, can it be rolled flat again or should I just get it made with new steel ?
What's a welded tray 1000 x 800 x 200 h going to cost ?
Paul.
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Nice little bench job, "can you make one of these in stainless"
Of course I can, so a few hours later and after cutting all those slots by hand with a thin cutting disc, here tis. its for a food factory so it got the usual finish,
Then took it to site and they bunged it down a drain!...
Of course I can, so a few hours later and after cutting all those slots by hand with a thin cutting disc, here tis. its for a food factory so it got the usual finish,
Then took it to site and they bunged it down a drain!...
WorkshopChris
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I know you always work to a very high standard but sometimes don't you just wish the customers gave you the full story at the beginning of a job.
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I made a load of double basket drain filters last year, the night shift cleaners were pulling the strainer basket out and emptying it straight into the drain. So had to make a sort of basket that was welded into the stainless gully liners then a basket to fit inside that all tight on tolerance so if they pulled it and emptied it into the drain the basket wouldn't fit back in unless it was thoroughly cleaned out.
Paul, sorry to jump on in your thread to ask a question like this... but always impressed by your stainless work so I figure you're the guy to ask!
in a while (probably 6 months) I'll have a fair bit of 316 stainless to mig (5mm, 3mm and 1.5mm)
I bought some stainless wire once before and it was bloody useless, kept getting tangled as it unwound and didn't weld nice at all, in the end I gave up and got a mate to tig it for me (I've got a decent tig, but I'm useless with it)
any pointers ? what make should I go for ? etc. etc. (I know nothing about stainless wire)
in a while (probably 6 months) I'll have a fair bit of 316 stainless to mig (5mm, 3mm and 1.5mm)
I bought some stainless wire once before and it was bloody useless, kept getting tangled as it unwound and didn't weld nice at all, in the end I gave up and got a mate to tig it for me (I've got a decent tig, but I'm useless with it)
any pointers ? what make should I go for ? etc. etc. (I know nothing about stainless wire)
Richard.
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Stainless wire is very ridged and can spring off a spool much easier than steel causing alsorts of mess if your not quick enough to catch the end.
I'd suggest you have the brake hub on your mig with a little more resistance set up to stop the spool over running causing it to spring off.
Regards quality of wire there are big differences between reputatable brands and cheap knock off stuff regards to quality control etc. I alway use the consumables from the top players. You'll pay more but it's worth it.
I'd suggest you have the brake hub on your mig with a little more resistance set up to stop the spool over running causing it to spring off.
Regards quality of wire there are big differences between reputatable brands and cheap knock off stuff regards to quality control etc. I alway use the consumables from the top players. You'll pay more but it's worth it.
Paul.
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These are vent pipe filters for large chemical storage tanks, when product is pumped out if moist air is drawn in it condenses in the vessel and contaminates the product, these boxes are connected to the tank breather, they will be filled with moisture absorbing crystals and all the incoming air passes through the crystals, when the tank is filled air is stopped by the rubber flap and is vented through the round vent on the top, very simple idea with no moving parts and works surprisingly well,
First the body, lots of tacks and clamped hard to an aluminium heatsink to control distortion
Bottom is a folded tray, a couple of slots and a fine perforated sheet spot welded on, then spot weld the base in,
Top folded up and fittings welded on, clamped down hard to a copper heatsink to control distortion.
Top mounted to backframe, these will hang on the handrail of a catwalk, a long way up in the air.
An inner top plate with another mesh covered hole, screwed to a flange welded round the inside
How it fits together, the polycarb window is to see the colour change of the crystals as they become saturated. the four M6 screws jack the box up under the top plate against a foam tape seal
And ready to go
First the body, lots of tacks and clamped hard to an aluminium heatsink to control distortion
Bottom is a folded tray, a couple of slots and a fine perforated sheet spot welded on, then spot weld the base in,
Top folded up and fittings welded on, clamped down hard to a copper heatsink to control distortion.
Top mounted to backframe, these will hang on the handrail of a catwalk, a long way up in the air.
An inner top plate with another mesh covered hole, screwed to a flange welded round the inside
How it fits together, the polycarb window is to see the colour change of the crystals as they become saturated. the four M6 screws jack the box up under the top plate against a foam tape seal
And ready to go
Screwdriver
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I'm not easily impressed but when I see your work I am always impressed!
Paul.
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Load more of these motor covers made this week,
All tacked up and ready for welding here,
Three days or so later and I've had just about enough of tig welding for this week,
And ready for delivery, amazingly I fitted the whole lot of them into the back of my tardis.
All tacked up and ready for welding here,
Three days or so later and I've had just about enough of tig welding for this week,
And ready for delivery, amazingly I fitted the whole lot of them into the back of my tardis.
