A few random stainless jobs

[Paul.]

Finished these today, some rails to go atop a wall, its a 14 metre run in total so made it in sections which will be fitted with a 50mm or so gap between them, they are to stop people sitting on the wall at a social clubhouse.

First make up some posts, 1.5" dia tube with a 3/4" top coped out, and a 3mm plate to the base, the baseplate will never be seen as the coping is going to be cut out and fitted on top of them.

Then for the rail ends some shallow domed endcaps made with a simple flypress tool made from a steel ball and a bit of tube.

Held in place for tacking using my patent endcapholderonner, picture a bit out of focus but you get the idea.

Welded and initial cleaned, I'll finish it properly at the end of the job.

Put it together by laying it up on an RHS to keep the posts in line.

A bit of pickling paste and a portion of elbow grease and we're finished,

 

[Richard.]

Liking the endcapholderonner a lot Paul. Very nice innovation there.

 

[Robotstar5]

Won't folks just sit on the rail instead?, nice job all the same

 

[RichardM]

Won't folks just sit on the rail instead?, nice job all the same

eactly what I was thinking, now you've made those nice rails trousers / skirts won't get dirty

 

[Woody.v8]

Won't folks just sit on the rail instead?, nice job all the same

They need a bit of old fifth wheel grease or some gex open gear box lube smearing on them, That would sort the chavs out
Nice job as always Paul

 

[Paul.]

It will be too high for sitting on, no chavs here, the the wall is near the bar at a rugby club, the idea is just to stop people sitting on it to watch the game, but there will be enough room between the coping and the rail for a pint glass.

 

[Paul.]

Sent these out yesterday, Aluminium not stainless,
Made from 2" x 2" x 1/4" channel they are cappings for roof light turrets, customer wanted the welds all cleaned off, so they were vee'd out quite deep before welding, they will be powder coated before fitting.

 

[DAPPH]

Finished these today, some rails to go atop a wall, its a 14 metre run in total so made it in sections which will be fitted with a 50mm or so gap between them, they are to stop people sitting on the wall at a social clubhouse.

First make up some posts, 1.5" dia tube with a 3/4" top coped out, and a 3mm plate to the base, the baseplate will never be seen as the coping is going to be cut out and fitted on top of them.
View attachment 118296
View attachment 118297
View attachment 118298

Then for the rail ends some shallow domed endcaps made with a simple flypress tool made from a steel ball and a bit of tube.
View attachment 118299
View attachment 118300

Held in place for tacking using my patent endcapholderonner, picture a bit out of focus but you get the idea.
View attachment 118301

Welded and initial cleaned, I'll finish it properly at the end of the job.
View attachment 118302
Put it together by laying it up on an RHS to keep the posts in line.
View attachment 118303

A bit of pickling paste and a portion of elbow grease and we're finished,
View attachment 118304
View attachment 118305

Wheeeeee! rock sliders for skateboarders

 

[DAPPH]

Liking the endcapholderonner a lot Paul. Very nice innovation there.

Geee l , G you gorra lorra of G clamps there Paul

 

[Paul.]

Geee l , G you gorra lorra of G clamps there Paul

Can never have too many clamps, without looking too hard round the shop I can see at least 30, and there will be a few more lurking about somewhere.

 

[knighty]

nice job on the channel

I guess they must be tricky to keep them square as you weld them up


or... is that just for us amateurs and it's just like box section for you ?

 

[Paul.]

Stainless rails from a few posts up are now fitted (not by me), now you can see why they don't want the wall to be used as a seat

 

[Paul.]

Stainless frame for some kind of display cabinet, stands on top of an existing worktop and will have glass shelves when finished.
All 30 x 30 x 2 Box section and for some reason was requested to be fully welded which means dealing with a bit of distortion,


Jacking it out, no need to be shy this is quite tough material and takes a bit of pushing.

That's better

Also wants the welds polishing out, so take the top of with a flap disc

Then tidy up the grain in one direction with a flap wheel

Mask off the joint with a thin stainless plate, and do the other direction

That'll do for the butt welds, the fillet welds will be pickled with metinox at the end of the job.

Frames made

Fabbing it up, simple corner jigs make life easy

And finished, car for scale as the mug was in use,
The keen eyed will notice that the top is not level, its apparently to follow a sloping ceiling, not how I would have done it, but I only make the stuff, the customers paying so can have what they want.

 

[Welderpaul]

Metinox? A change from Polinox?

 

[Paul.]

They are all much the same, actually metinox is now called antox I've had this tub a while and just get what BOC have on the shelf.

 

[Tigman]

nice work Paul ! I like the little bit of sheet clamped on so you can get the grain right without messing the other up , very clever !

 

[Richard.]

nice work Paul ! I like the little bit of sheet clamped on so you can get the grain right without messing the other up , very clever !

You can buy the tape for masking off joints when regraing stainless but it’s expensive and can’t be used more than once. I do it like Paul has shown above. A piece of 0.7 stainless lightly clamped just off the line makes a lovely job. It takes a good few joints before you wear it down to a knife edge too.
I put it a couple of mm before the line which makes your wheel actually hit the line pretty much bang on.

 

[Tigman]

Im learning all sorts on here , I dont do a lot of stainless but when I do I struggle , I purchased a Flex tube polisher for the last job, that went well , for round tube , expensive but worth it in the long run , but thats a nice little tip for square tube !

have you moved Richard ?

 

[Paul.]

It takes a good few joints before you wear it down to a knife edge too.

Then when it wears one cut with the tinsnips and its as good as new again, that little scrap in the photo has done countless joints and will no doubt do many more.

 

[Richard.]

Im learning all sorts on here , I dont do a lot of stainless but when I do I struggle , I purchased a Flex tube polisher for the last job, that went well , for round tube , expensive but worth it in the long run , but thats a nice little tip for square tube !

have you moved Richard ?

A little while back now I moved.