British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[Wildefalcon]

More fill, and sanding soon.

Hope to have paint on tonight, and lots of drilling tomorrow.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Paint is great, covers all manner of ills. And careful, appropriate repairs, of course......

 

[Wildefalcon]

The weather forecast is fairly good, so I'm going to get these doors aligned and bolted in place, with all holes drilled tomorrow.

At some stage next month I'll take them down and put on another layer of epoxy, followed by top coat, and do the planks into the panel. But I've a lot of other stuff on for the next fortnight.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Getting closer to what I call quite good.

 

[Wildefalcon]

That will do. Back in a couple of weeks....

 

[Wildefalcon]

Right, back from leave. And back at work.

So painting and sanding, but not in that order. I've switched to a short mohair roller, much smoother flatter finish. Ideally, I'd use a foam roller, but am yet to find one that survives the solvent paint.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I spent a bit of time playing with the outer planks this evening. I'm going to check tomorrow what the alignment with the bolt holes will be like, but it's going to be either with the tongue and groove in the centre, below, or with the centre of a plank in the middle. I think this is going to work.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm still undecided as to what to do with the inner. I'm still playing with the idea of white painted plywood, something thin. But I keep coming back to the vee sheeting/piranha pine idea.

 

[gaz1]

depends on what your intentions are with the rest of the interior will be

if wood then use that method but remember weight on the door and hinges

i wouldnt use plywood though it maybe thin

if plastic internals then use plastic angle iron with a soffit board look for the doors as it gives the effect of wood tongue and groove but is light weight

dont forget its not going to be sun bleached in there so the cladding look of plastic will suit it

all depends on the colour you pick

the look of wood cladding internals would be nice and in keeping of the vented train wagon

 

[Wildefalcon]

I think you've got good advice.

One option would be the thin plywood. But put the elm bash panels over it. All in old white, to brighten the place.

The interior will be insulted plasterboard, but with the original elm panels over it, well, in most places. I've a few special areas in mind......

 

[gaz1]

wood cladding not painted

these 2 pics will show you how it could look in thin wood cladding

take note of the optic elusion of length due to the ceiling run in long lengths whilst the walls are run vertical

 

[zx9]

I spent a bit of time playing with the outer planks this evening. I'm going to check tomorrow what the alignment with the bolt holes will be like, but it's going to be either with the tongue and groove in the centre, below, or with the centre of a plank in the middle. I think this is going to work.

View attachment 440550 View attachment 440551 View attachment 440552 View attachment 440553

I like the use of washers as spacers, possibly an old trick but new to me as a non wood worrier.

 

[Wildefalcon]

My dad taught me that. Allows for expansion. He used to, amongst many other things, fit hardwood floors.

 

[Wildefalcon]

wood cladding not painted

these 2 pics will show you how it could look in thin wood cladding

take note of the optic elusion of length due to the ceiling run in long lengths whilst the walls are run vertical

View attachment 440600View attachment 440601

Management likes white, less claustrophobic.

And the original boards are old gloss white, so getting back up to natural isn't an option. Yet.

 

[gaz1]

painted cladding



even thats a view i wont forget

 

[slim_boy_fat]

thats a view i wont forget

@Burdekin's place?

 

[Burdekin]

painted cladding

View attachment 440639View attachment 440640

even thats a view i wont forget

Rubbish view.

 

[Burdekin]

painted cladding

View attachment 440639View attachment 440640

even thats a view i wont forget

Worth noting I got a local painter in to paint the T&G. I probably would have just rollered it all but he insisted on painting with a brush. He bought very good quality paint brushes and it cost a lot to paint but he did a fantastic job, took a good while to paint, the quality of his work was spot on, finish was superb and it still looks great.

 

[Blue Chips]

I like the use of washers as spacers, possibly an old trick but new to me as a non wood worrier.

I think that using temporary spacers when installing T&G boards is a good idea in most cases, keeping in mind that wider boards will expand/contract more in actual width than narrower boards, so one should adjust spacer thickness accordingly. That said, if the moisture level in the new boards is high enough, spacers 'might' not be necessary. One could use a wood moisture meter to note the moisture level during extended periods of high relative humidity in some of the old existing (and preferably unpainted) T&G boards of the same kind of wood, and then use that as a rough baseline for comparison with the new wood's moisture level. However, since there are a number of other factors that can influence wood expansion/contraction, one might want to err on the safe side and use spacers...worst case, you just end up with somewhat larger gaps during periods of low relative humidity.

 

[gaz1]

Worth noting I got a local painter in to paint the T&G. I probably would have just rollered it all but he insisted on painting with a brush. He bought very good quality paint brushes and it cost a lot to paint but he did a fantastic job, took a good while to paint, the quality of his work was spot on, finish was superb and it still looks great.

you forgot to mention the paint that you used as its nice quality paint from the look of it