Guineafowl
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He’s right - might be worth a shot. Impulse of force: imagine trying to push a nail into wood with a hammer, versus banging it in normally.
- Thread starter gerrymoore
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premmington
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Can't see you pressing it off - where are you gonna put the force pin/screw?
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You will be cutting it off - with a disc cutter - that your only route now...
Egg shell it off the shaft with a grinder - then a chisel - this is not easy work - or clean work with all the black lithium grease dripping out. Try a new CV joint.
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The CV joint puller frame you bought - I have to grind some flats on the shaft for the clamp to hold - before I muller the joint off.
If it makes you feel any better I got a yard full of cars - with parts on back order to the factory - with the owners ringing me daily for progress reports. Parts supply is really bad at the moment ex the dealerships for anything over ten years old - "bad" = non existent
gerrymoore
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Just to elaborate... this is the brand new cv joint that only went so far before jamming solid I can't budge it forward or backwards. I have hammered and hammered with a very large hammer but it will not move. If you read this whole thread I could not remove the original cv and ended up cutting it off and was left with the spider and I had to cut that off too.
I'm hoping I can get this pressed off somehow .....
I'm hoping I can get this pressed off somehow .....
MetalMonkey
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Press will exert a continued force until something gives up or breaks.
Air hammer will vibrate the part with lots of rapid light blows.
Sometimes things become stuck or bound up on each other and just pushing it, or hitting it manually with a hammer won't free it, where as the vibrations from an air hammer somehow just bounce everything around at just the right resonant frequency to cause them to shift.
It doesn't always work, but when it does it is like magic - because you can be whaling one something with maximum effort and a lump hammer until it starts to deform and not get it to budge a fraction, and then you give it three or four seconds with an air hammer and it literally drops onto the floor. I'd say its worth a short before you cut it off again.
What I can't follow.is the tool you rented what did you use that for? As I thought you said you needed a bigger impact gun.
I am reading your posts as the CV joint going in towards the engine but you need to get it out away from the engine?
premmington
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How are you gonna get it in a press?
And which bit are you gonna put the force screw on?
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It is not a bearing on a shaft - it is spider on the end of a shaft with no access to the shaft to force it off!
gerrymoore
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The tool is a cv joint puller it works by clamping on to the drive shaft and then a large nut tightened to the thread of the cv pulls it off the shaft ... my impact gun couldn't do it so hired a bigger one but that couldn't budge it either now even wacking with a fbh isn't working....
gerrymoore
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Think I am going to have to find a new shaft ..... but not from mazda... knocking off for now lads as I am absolutely shattered I'll get some rest and be back on tomorrow... thanks again for all the help Gerry
MetalMonkey
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Excuse the sucking eggs, but when you say you are hitting it with a hammer, just to be clear you are hitting on the spider with a drift, and not the back of the cup?
gerrymoore
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Yes on the spider only and moving around the joint but can't budge it .... last post as having a very early night
Ok that makes sense to me now.
premmington
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That's my thoughts on this - it called "an autopsy".
Shaftec rep once told me there are very few CV joints that are not meant to come off - mostly Nissan and Toyota. They only sell whole exchange shafts for these applications. Yes they have a clip in them - but the shape of clip and groove means they only go on - not come off (unless you get angry grinder out).
gerrymoore
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Another sleepless night. Ok I'm taking back the windy gun this morning I'll ask them for ideas on getting it off. I have a mad idea. If I can make sure the osf cv joint is the same on the manual mazda2 then I could buy a new shaft for a manual and cut it off at an exact point ... do the same with my shaft get a hollow steel sleeve say 100mm long to slide over the old and new shafts and weld it on ....there's plenty of room and it's not a powerful car so would be very safe ....OK I'm ready to be shot down 
gerrymoore
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Hi joe thanks... my problem is I can't get the new cv either on or off ... if I get it off I will be able to examine the splines to see what the problem is .... a garage would have to do the same but I am capable of doing it myself .... I've worked on cars for 50 plus years but never known this problem 
O ffs, just cut the bloody cv off, examine the splines, if they can be salvaged, get a new cv and test fit it (without snap ring in place) - why you never did this in the first place I don't know?
If the 2nd new CV is not the right one you need a chat with your supplier...
If the 2nd new CV is not the right one you need a chat with your supplier...
gerrymoore
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You're dead right ...why the hell I didn't check the fit first is beyond me ...and I am certainly suffering the consequences
You've already cut the old one off in post 61, so it's not like you don't know how to.
As @minimutly says, cut this one off too and if the shaft can be cleaned up do so, then fit another new joint.
If the shaft can't be saved, start working round the breakers etc, someone will have a replacement you just need to start asking the question.
Or as you've suggested start investigating the difference between an manual and auto, it might only be the gearbox end that's different, and you'll be able to cobble together part of yours and part of a manual version.
Whatever you do, the CV has to come off so cut it off.
As @minimutly says, cut this one off too and if the shaft can be cleaned up do so, then fit another new joint.
If the shaft can't be saved, start working round the breakers etc, someone will have a replacement you just need to start asking the question.
Or as you've suggested start investigating the difference between an manual and auto, it might only be the gearbox end that's different, and you'll be able to cobble together part of yours and part of a manual version.
Whatever you do, the CV has to come off so cut it off.
