Good advice. Since you have mentioned it, and as this is a welding forum, and it is your car, you might be on to something re welding a new end with cv onto the shaft (if it is knacked or you can't get a new one). Last resort maybe, but it does work. I've done loads in competition use, you need a lathe and welder, even did one on the wifes MGTF which managed to break one of its shafts - did some serious burnouts to test it too.
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gerrymoore
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Just going for slitting discs ... at least I'll be on the bench rather than under the car !!!
If it runs true it won't need balancing. And mot failure - since when? Propshafts turn at 31/2 times the speed of a driveshaft, are longer, bigger in overall diameter, and they are welded...
And @dan treg , show me one driveshaft, just one that's been balanced? I've never in all my life seen one with tacked on wights, or been ground out?
hi a lot of driveshafts and propshafts are welded but obviously in a production environment . not sure what that's got to do with mot failure didnt refer to that
Nothing, I was answering two posts in one. Driveshafts are sometimes welded too you're right - VW did it with the Golf, my early production Rover 220GTI had a friction welded solid shaft (only found out when it broke).
Round shaft, sufficiently toleranced so it doesn't require balancing. Works for us on high speed rotating machinery.
But I could easily see DIY welding making it nicely unbalanced.
Propshafts are balanced - tacked on, riveted on, lumps of anything the right weight - the first special prop I paid for from a place just outside Sheffield had some nice curved weights, "Ford" branded ones, riveted on . . . closer inspected revealed them to be bits of bearing shell
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In the past Ive made a couple of trike prop shafts joining bike and shaft car one, also shortened ford half shafts and welded, none were balanced and didn't cause an issue. Though the manufacture was very careful to preserve concentricity.Round shaft, sufficiently toleranced so it doesn't require balancing. Works for us on high speed rotating machinery.
But I could easily see DIY welding making it nicely unbalanced.
Propshafts are balanced - tacked on, riveted on, lumps of anything the right weight - the first special prop I paid for from a place just outside Sheffield had some nice curved weights, "Ford" branded ones, riveted on . . . closer inspected revealed them to be bits of bearing shell
addjunkie
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gerrymoore
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Ok I've found the problem. Cut the cv joint off but still left with spider. Turns out it is fully on to the splines...but ... I can turn it by hand !!!! So the only explanation is it's the wrong part For it to move there must be an extra 1 or even 2 splines. I would like to get it off in one piece to count the splines and then contact autodoc and see what they say as it is definitely listed for the auto version. I might stand a chance of a refund or the correct part sending. Now Premington said they are not designed to come off so how do I get it off in one piece?? It's actually loose on the splines but the circlip is the problem....
You can count the number of splines and measure the diameter with it still fitted from the front now if you want. Then just cut it off and be done with.
Get some photos if you want to pursue a refund once its back together.
The important thing now is to cut the spider off, inspect what's left of the shaft sllines and if the shafts still serviceable get a new CV on it and get back on the road.
You can mess around looking for refunds to your hearts content once it's fixed.
Good work getting this far and identifying the problem. It's all down hill from here.
Get some photos if you want to pursue a refund once its back together.
The important thing now is to cut the spider off, inspect what's left of the shaft sllines and if the shafts still serviceable get a new CV on it and get back on the road.
You can mess around looking for refunds to your hearts content once it's fixed.
Good work getting this far and identifying the problem. It's all down hill from here.
You really are getting yourself in a muddle with this - count the splines on the shaft - the bloody cv is scrap!
To get it off, cut the spider lengthways (not full depth) and split it with a chisel.
Sorry, but at post 75 I told you that it was in and the wrong joint...
gerrymoore
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Ok shaft has 21 splines ...CV has ...wait for it!! ..... 22 splines. So I need to check out a cv joint with the same dimensions but 21 splines ... I knew I wasn't such a bad mechanic 
And does the (now split in half) spider have a cut for the snap ring to drop into within it's splines? Ie making it a fit once jobby?Ok shaft has 21 splines ...CV has ...wait for it!! ..... 22 splines. So I need to check out a cv joint with the same dimensions but 21 splines ... I knew I wasn't such a bad mechanic
Presumably the original didn't have this cut?
Large press will shift that..
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Ok shaft has 21 splines ...CV has ...wait for it!! ..... 22 splines. So I need to check out a cv joint with the same dimensions but 21 splines ... I knew I wasn't such a bad mechanic
Ah! The thick plottens, I looked up that CV joint a while back and 2015 is a change over year for the shafts. yours could be a late registered early car.
Bob
