Handy 3d prints for the workshop

[indy4x]

As others have said infil seems fine. It's functional as opposed to strong part.
Supports are not that bad but since I started using tree supports in cura 4.8 they seemed way better.

Just trying tree support for the 1st time, interested in the outcome

Just started the print, the reverse J is the base of the tree support

 

[Onoff]

Hand fettled some cranked, 1mm copper sheet for the battery connectors. Tight fit so tapped them in with a soft punch:

Unfortunately the tight fit/my hammering caused the print to start to split and delaminate:

Now then, anyone care to spot the deliberate mistake?

Not insurmountable, I could just split the tool to get the adapter in. I have to any way to solder the wires on.

 

[Screwdriver]

Looks like an ideal candidate for a salt bake!

Finely ground salt, plaster of Paris, silicone, people are heat treating their prints in all sorts of crap. You might even get away with a low bake but is that's PLA surely acetone smoothing will sort out the ugly print lines and the delams??

 

[Onoff]

Looks like an ideal candidate for a salt bake!

Finely ground salt, plaster of Paris, silicone, people are heat treating their prints in all sorts of crap. You might even get away with a low bake but is that's PLA surely acetone smoothing will sort out the ugly print lines and the delams??

Never heard of a salt bake!

What does a low bake involve, SWMBO's oven?

I didn't think acetone affected PLA, you sure?

 

[Screwdriver]

Never heard of a salt bake!

What does a low bake involve, SWMBO's oven?

I didn't think acetone affected PLA, you sure?

Dunno. I'm all PETG here. I know it should work for ABS but I am working up to using that (next reel). The various "bakes" are alternative smoothing/strengthening methods and I mention it briefly because I haven't tried them all yet and the internet is full of in depth discussion on these matters. Suck it and see. I'd go with powdered salt, compressed around the part then bake if I was going to try anything. Seems like a lot of faffing about for my purposes but might be a useful technique if/when you need the ultimate strength and cosmetic appearance remembering all these things will affect dimensional accuracy and geometry.

I have done a few tests with PETG with heat, acetone etc. but I know it requires a pretty nasty chemical which (having played with before) I won't be recommending. I haven't felt the need to really try any of this because I am getting good enough results as-is.

 

[tflnemesis]

I use an acetone vapour bath to smooth ABS prints but am mostly printing petg nowadays.

 

[Onoff]

Anyone care to share some pics of their PETG prints?

 

[Justme]

Am I right in thinking the PETG is half way between PLA & ABS in terms of strength & other properties.
But easier to print than ABS.

 

[tflnemesis]

My favourite one so far, had to add the base as it wouldn't stay stuck down to the bed.
PETG No supports 10% infill 1.2 mm shell, Mug for scale 385mm tall.



Oh yeah 53 hours to print....

 

[Bladevane]

This is a mount for my spare dashcam for use as a spy camera in my garden.



This is a roller frame to cut the end off a large round cylinder using my plasma. Frame and rollers are PETG, spacers are PLA, spindles are aluminium alloy.



And this is a modified Y Rod Holder with threaded inserts for my printer.

 

[daedalusminos]

Anyone care to share some pics of their PETG prints?

This is PETG

 

[carbon]

PLA is supposed to degrade in sunlight. PETG doesn’t as far as I’m aware. I made a dash mount for a sat nav I have in my van a couple of years ago and I haven’t had any issues with it so far

 

[indy4x]

@Justme not sure of the answer, only done PLA so far, I think @Screwdriver posted that PLA is stronger than PETG but PETG is less brittle than PLA

 

[Screwdriver]

Some amazing prints up there.

I use PETG because I think it is tougher and harder than PLA and better for dimensional stability when printing mechanisms.

 

[AndersK]

For the interested, technical data for petg and play.

 

[m_c]

PLA is generally the easiest to work with, as it has the lowest melting point, and generally gives clean prints. You can also easily chemically smooth it, if you're into modelling.
However, the melting point is that low, it can deform in direct sunlight, and it's not that durable.

PETG is generally stronger, and is more heat resistant, without needing that much more heat to melt it than PLA. It is however far more likely to result in stringy prints (that's the kind of furry look you might have seen on some prints, where the end of extruding isn't clean cut, and results in the filament leaving a 'string' as the print head moves away).

ABS is stronger yet, but needs more heat, which cheaper printers may struggle with, it's more likely to deform during printing due to drafts (where enclosures really make a big benefit), and it gives of unpleasant fumes when printing.

There are lots of other filaments available, but PLA and PETG are the most common. ABS is fairly common, but not as popular. Then you're into more specialist filaments, which you probably won't ever use unless you have a specific need for them.

 

[ukracer]

This is PETGView attachment 278513View attachment 278514

That's mint. How do you get the white bits in it?

 

[Screwdriver]

For the interested, technical data for petg and play.

Tensile modulus is a LOT higher in PETG than PLA according to that pdf, almost five times "stiffer".

I seem to recall reading that when I first started out which I why I have only ever used PETG. I want to make usable stuff that does a job and not pretty things that look nice.

 

[daedalusminos]

That's mint. How do you get the white bits in it?

Not mint but pistachio green

The white is just enamel paint laid in printed emboss then excess sanded off.

 

[indy4x]

There is a YT video with PLA/PETG/ABS comparison