Looking for TR50mc

[brockenhammer]

One Question regarding the TR50MC.
If you connect it to the machine, is there allways pulse? There is no switsch to activate it.
Or do you just have to turm both currents to 100% to have it not pulsing??

 

[HughF]

The original TR50MC does not have the 'Off' position on the pulse frequency selection. The Eutectic version which I copied does have this ability to turn the pulse off.

 

[brockenhammer]

Thanks Hugh,
I have an older version of the Castolin here. That one has no "no pulse" option. Just the for pulse ranges.
Do you think it´s easy to add a toggle switch to the remote to switch it of?

 

[HughF]

 

[HughF]

Take pin H to ground and it will revert to DC mode.

 

[brockenhammer]

Great, thank you.
so easy to add that extra switch. Funny, that there is a version without.
Maybe i can do the little modification tomorrow.

 

[HughF]

I won't be making any more batches of these TR50MC remotes, time and personal stuff means I can't commit to fulfilling orders for anymore units.

I've put all the files needed for production of the internal PCB and the Front Panel on my GitHub repository:

GitHub - HughF/TR50MC: A clone of the Fronius TR50MC pulsing remote

A clone of the Fronius TR50MC pulsing remote. Contribute to HughF/TR50MC development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

And I will update that repo with the design files for the case too, at some point this year...

Happy manufacturing everyone...

 

[Macfun]

Hi all !

I bought one last thursday, including cable, for around 160 euros.
Worth waiting a good opportunity. Can't resist.
Some light cosmetic issues (buttons caps missing, one foot missing) but good-working item.

Now that I have a well-equipped machine, I need to become a good welder.
Most tricky part, I presume ?

 

[Jan-DIY]

Same issue here ;-)

 

[Dutch Welder]

If anyone is looking for 1 I have a HughF copy available ,n othing wrong with it, just lucky that I found a spares MW2000 with genuine Pulse and AC remotes.

 

[petebugsy]

If anyone is looking for 1 I have a HughF copy available ,n othing wrong with it, just lucky that I found a spares MW2000 with genuine Pulse and AC remotes.

Do you still have this available?

 

[Dutch Welder]

Do you still have this available?

Yes I do.

 

[petebugsy]

Yes I do.

I have messaged you

 

[Xax]

Hi,
I am a German welder. I have a Fronius Magic Wave 2000 and I am looking
for accessories for it.
Does anyone happen to have an TR50 mc or individual parts for building (HughF copy) ?

Thanks for answers
Xax

 

[HughF]

I’ll put together the gerber files for production, along with a cpl and bom for the board. That way anyone can get a run of boards made at jlcpcb or pcbway.

 

[Dutch Welder]

I know a guy selling a genuine one in the Netherlands.

 

[Xax]

I know a guy selling a genuine one in the Netherlands.

Please send me infos.

 

[brockenhammer]

I have a Fronius Pulse remote and also a cooler (which is for the Castolin 2002) which might be of interest.
The remote is like new, the cooler used but in working order.

Moin, ich hab da noch nen Pulser und den Unterbaukühler den ich derzeit nicht mehr brauche.
Vielleicht ist das was für Dich?

 

[Jan-DIY]

Ich wuerde den Pulser nehmen ;-)

But I also got all diagrams.
Pm me if you are interested.

Jan

 

[Xax]

Take pin H to ground and it will revert to DC mode.

Hello,
the original rotary switch can easily be converted to 5 notches by changing the "locking ring".
First turn the rotary switch all the way to the left (1 Hz). Then unscrew the 4 housing screws on the side and
pull the housing top part out of the housing bottom part. Then remove the knobs. Then the board can be
turned over. Now unscrew the visible nut and flat washer from the top of the rotary switch.
The now visible "locking ring" has a locking lug. Put this latch in position 5.
Then reassemble in reverse order.
There should now be 5 detent positions.
Now solder a new cable from the 5th locking pin to A (ground).
Now the housing can be reassembled.

I chose the cumbersome way of desoldering and disassembling the rotary switch.
But now I'm wiser and would do it as above.

Best regards, Axel